January 25, 2011 Kay's Journal Kummah Class

Oh dear, she is checking up on my stitches again!

  Leslie and I off to Kummah class at the Omani Heritage Gallery which Leslie had organized for Muna as a “test” of this new workshop.  The Director of the Gallery, Muna Ritchie (Omani woman married to a Brit) had set up this non-profit organization to promote and preserve the old handicrafts.  Muna had been the speaker at the AWG Christmas lunch and this workshop and been conceived by the ladies as they were interested in learning how to make a kummah (the traditional Omani man’s cap). Twelve women, Australian, UK, India and 2 Americans, Leslie and myself. The Omani women as instructors supplied each of us with an 8”x8” piece of uneven stenciled Kummah cloth, white with choice of colored thread, a sewing needle, thimble and a large needle for puncturing a hole to begin the sewing process. Close work, must pay attention to the design.  Leslie passed, myself…the Omani instructor was concerned on leaving me alone for fear I would make a wrong stitch again.  She diligently returned to my cloth every few minutes to correct my stitches.  Very sweet indeed. Roger and David went to the fish souk for Hammour while we were at the Omani Heritage Gallery. Also went to “Gents Tailoring” to check on Roger’s night shirts and repaired button holes.  Onto Sr Bosches home for laundry and emails etc.  We were to pick up the hammour grilled by “Fisherman Grill” at 12:30.  We arrived a few minutes late, Leslie bounced out of the car and disappeared into the “Fisherman Grill” returning with a lovely grilled hammour and fresh baked Arab bread. Met back at the house for a quite delicious lunch, changed and off to the Al Bustan gym, pool, sunbathing. Left at 4:45 to change clothes and back to the Hotel for the archeology lecture by Lorena Giorgio (Italian archeologist) on Omani civilization beginning 4000 BC.  Lorena is one of Leslie and David’s neighbors. Interesting and informative. A number of sites in her presentation we had visited which made the presentation more appealing to us.  Back home for a light salad before retiring. Early rising scheduled for tomorrow – 5am.

January 24, 2011 Kay's Journal The Joys of the Al Bustan

Had our muesli on the deck this morning and have all decided this will be a relaxing day in preparation for our “dune bashing” and “Bedouin tent camp out” tomorrow.   David is doing just a great job driving through all the off road tracts.  As long as he has his “black tea” he says he’s fine.   Leslie’s over to the Sr. Bosch’s for computer work and David, Roger and I off to the bank to exchange riyals back into dollars.   Home for lunch and over to the Al Bustan for use of the gym and just relaxing by the pool.  The first thing they do at the hotel is once you’ve found your perfect spot the pool guys bring you over a cooler with cold waters, herb scented washcloths and a soft delicate spray to cool one down.  Later in the afternoon they came by with varied flavors of shebert..we are truly spoiled at this point!   Tonight Cecelia is preparing an Asian dinner for us at the Sr. Bosch’s Villa.   Just as we arrived at the Bosch’s, General Jamie Gordon had just come over to introduce himself as their new neighbor.   He is the newly appointed British General to Oman.   Very personable and enthusiastic over his new assignment.  Cecelia’s dinner was superb. Over and beyond!  Presentation appealing and delectable.  Salad of fresh veggies, “bitter gourd with tuna” (it is bitter but lessens as it cooks, olive oil & fresh tuna enhances the flavor) green mango salad, sautéed eggplant served with caramelized onions, pansit noodles with tofu, Cornish hen with plum sauce, cranberry slices with fresh orange segments, naan bread served with the monthly allotment of the Bosch wine.  Dessert of banana plantain with jack fruit, chocolate bundt cake with vanilla ice cream.  Absolutely Delicious.   There were eight of us with Paul and Cecelia, Don and Eloise and the four of us.   Don especially enjoyed himself this evening which was wonderful to see along with Eloise by his side.

January 23, 2011 Kay's Journal Errands around town

Back to reality, Sunday morning we headed off to the gym at the Al Bustan. This has been great having the use of the gym. Leslie and David set us up with a gym/pool/beach membership for the duration of our stay..it has been wonderful..and superb service. After our workouts Leslie and I have to use the pool showers for their in the process “Inshallah” of redoing the women’s showers in the locker boom. .After a few days we decided to just wash our hair in the locker room sinks to have the hot water. It was a little to misty today to enjoy the poolside lounging which gave us a good excuse to run some errands. Which meant returning to the jeweler! Which is always a unique experience..we have pictures of these encounters somewhere on the flashdrive Leslie created for us. These gentlemen are so very pleasant, patient; understanding when changes are made...you can tell they have been dealing with women for centuries! From here we went to the Sr. Bosch’s to do laundry, computer work and a bit of tea and date cake while visiting with Eloise, Don, Cecelia & Paul. After four to the bank to change a few riyals into dirhams for Dubai and off to LuLu’s for dinner supplies including one of the best goat cheeses we have ever tasted.

January 22, 2011 Kay's Journal Al Hamra to Nizwa and home

Rain everywhere and when not it is a bit misty and humid. Watching the men in their disdashia’s and the women in their abbaya’s both wearing the open toes sandals is not an issue. They are quite pleased as we would be to when you see the natural habitat nature has provided them. They love the rains as along as it is not enough to create flooding thru the wadi’s. This morning we visited the the recently reconstructed Nazia Fort, it is like walking thru a maze. So many rooms and all interconnected one one way or another. I especially liked the “date” room. Here they stored bags of dates, one layed on top of the other..the sole purpose being to drain the oil from the dates, which ran down into the pots set below. The oil was heated then used to pour down from the tower onto the oncoming attackers. Creative we thought!


From here we went to the “date”souk. 40 varieties..we selected two. The sweetest and less sweet. Each a bit different in color, texture and taste. Sweetest being used for deserts of course. Visited the morning souk for frankincense and to check out the Khanjar, the traditional daggar the men wear around their waist (this is attached to a very elaborate decorative leather belt stitched with silver/gold threads). In former days men did not leave their homes without being armed with their Khanjar. I think David was hoping to convince Roger to come home with one. Leslie found one of the old traditional belts she was quite happy with.

We stopped for lunch at a roadside café, which turned out to be more of a “hubbly bubbly” center for the men. Which Dave and Roger were offered! The proprietress was Egpytian, she appeared out of no leading us to a table with rain dripping down from the canvas awnings and motioned us to sit at this table and we found when sitting down our feet rested in puddles of water. After this we knew we had to stay to see what the lunch would be. Actually it was okay..shisk ka bob, typical salad of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, humus and arab bread...who could trade such an experience!

January 19, 2011 Kay's Journal Day trip to Dam and Wadi Shab

Up and off on a road trip. First we went to Wadi Dayqah Dam  at Al Mazari which was quite an impressive dam founded within the narrow limestone gorge through which the wadi flows. Had picnic lunch there then on down the coast road continuing south towards Sur.

Wadi Dayqah Dam

Walking through Wadi Shab



An old Falaj system in Wadi Shab



Wadi Shab is an interesting piece of outstanding natural beauty and peace. It is approached by a road that has been cemented because of the steepness of the descent & ascent from the cliffs. The wadi itself is not drainable. Walk into the wadi is calm, serene and beautiful through the steep ravines, past pools, waterfalls and lush plantations of date trees. Several villages along the hillside are only accessibly by foot. We did not attempt to visit these. “Piece de Resistance” is the mountain pool at the end of the walk, here you can swim through a tight neck-width gap & narrow tunnel, which opens up into a cavernous mountain pool area. At “Tiwi”, which almost runs into Shab Village, we drove into but then drove back to wadi Shab. Vegetation consists of Alfalfa, groves of banana, mango and fig trees, very lush and the water flows all year round. These groves follow the path of the original “falaj” (water irrigation system) and as I mentioned earlier, these channels are still used to irrigate the oasis today.



Bibi Mariam's tomb



Qalhat is where the “House of Mary”, BiBi Mariam Tomb is located. Bait Mariam. In the 14th century many of the major buildings were destroyed by a major earthquake. The Portuguese came in the 15th century ransacked Muscat and Qalhat, slaughtering the villagers and destroying the complete area. The Tomb of Mariam somehow remained in fairly good shape and is one of the only structures left standing. This area, like so many others in Oman, is a major archaeology site. We tread lightly thru the rubble seeing many pieces of pottery with huge signs saying “do not trespass” under the Sultan’s law. Just to hard to resist, temptation was to great seeing all the pieces of sherds (pottery), shards (glass)..I’m learning hear from our own private team.. Fascinating and intriguing as to a look back in time in how these people lived. Incredibly hard lives by our standards - but then it was perfectly normal!

January 18, 2011 Kay's Journal Ghalya’s Museum of Modern Art

Breakfast on the deck overlooking the men repairing the fishing nets and just below a few of the men working on wooden boats. Such a lovely morning. Now were off and running to see the Nat’l Geographic exhibit on “dhows”. The wooden boats are still in use today. While waiting in line we met English mothers who are home schooling as well as American women doing the same. Just above us is the “Hypermart” grocery mall. Great fun to explore the food aisles and see the arrays of coffee beans, cheeses, meats, nuts and dates. From here we drove over to the Senior Bosch’s for lunch with Don, Eloise and Cecilia. Paul came in a little later. Very nice, lovely home, gorgeous view of the ocean and a nice lunch of pumpkin soup, tuna salad, fresh fruit and chocolate or date cake for desert. Very tasteful and good company, Don enjoyed himself as well.


The Bosch’s have let us do our laundry at their place for there are no accommodations at Leslie & David’s, plus use their computer which is very helpful. Off to the gym and onto the beach at the Al Bustan. How nice is that. Tonight we attended the opening of the “Ghalya’s Museum of Modern Art”. Very impressive. We sat next to the Japanese “Ambassador and his wife, in front of us were the Italian Ambassador with two very attractive women, British & American Ambassador,( Richard Schmierer and Sandy) in attendance.  There were traditional Omani musicians and dancers, both male and female, greeting the guests as they arrived and as they left. The ladies were dressed in bright red traditional Omani clothes. Gorgeous Omani women in their beautiful designed abbaya’s with tight “sarwal” pants tapered to the ankles worn underneath the abbaya. The shawls covering their hair are very feminine. The combination of the facial makeup, the shading of the eyes, lips lines and the many varieties of the “shawl” make for a very alluring look for the woman. We have seen so many attractive Omani women here. Femininity is very apparent in these woman. They love fashion and know how to wear it properly. Great fun being here with Leslie and David. They are known amongst different groups and with David speaking Arabic it has made this trip a true pleasure. David father, Don, is a retired missionary Doctor here in Muscat. Don, Eloise and children arrived here in the mid-50's. Don being the second Dr. ever to be here is highly respected, not only by the public but has endeared he and his family to the Sultan by his good care of the Sultan’s Mother. This is when David learned to speak, read and write Arabic growing up here a child. It is such a delight to listen to David conversing with Omani’s and to see the surprise look on some of the Omani faces when they realize this is just not a tourist giving his greetings! Back to the Bosch’s and into bed with the cool ocean breezes passing through our windows. Prayer call in the morning is our wakeup call.

PS - The weekly HI magazine social pages showed a picture of Roger and Kay at the opening admiring a painting with the artist explaining her work

January 17, 2011 Kay's Journal Muttrah Souk Tour

Breakfast of muesli, toast, freshly squeeze orange juice and cafe’/teas on the morning view from the rooftop...did I mentioned four flights of stairs before arriving on the deck....good morning exercise! Our appointment at the “Grand Mosque” was set for 9:30AM. Lovely Omani women as our guide. Spectacular mosaics, tiles, carpets. All perfect for photo shoots! The Women have their own section for prayer, separate of the men’s. Leslie and I wore scarves to cover our heads and we all removed our shoes on entering the Mosque. They have little shoe holders along the walls.


From here we went to the Al Bustan to workout at their gym. One of the best equipped gyms we’ve seen, showers, saunas and or a lovely beach/pool for the body’s recuperation! Staff is very personable, helpful and always has bottled water ready when you walk in. Enjoyed sitting by the pool and wadding in the pool. Lovely surroundings, a number of German tourists come here every winter for their vitamin D.



Ralph with halwah spoon

Tonight we met Abdul Rauf Wood (Ralph), a British man who is now an Omani citizen. He was hired on years ago by the Sultan to Captain his own personal ship. He is now retired, enjoying life and has converted to the Muslim religion. Ralph was our guide this evening through the “Muttrah Souk” - one particular alley is called Souk al Gallam- “Market of Shades”. Opens Sat. thru Thurs. 9-1PM & 4:30-11PM and on Friday which is our Sunday, 4:30 to 11PM. Prayer times in between. An insurmountable array of shops selling everything an Omani could want. For the women beautifully designed abbeya’s, handsomely tailored disdasha’s for the men. Gold everywhere, frankincense, spices, household goods all abundant. Ralph walked us through the olf areas of living quarters, up to the top for a view of the city. Over to the new city “tower gate” for an evening view of the city lights, discovered an amphi theatre there which appears to be undiscovered by the locals as well as the ex-pats. Leslie hopes to attain permission to use this for one of her AWG performances with an Opera Singer she is acquainted with. Home for a quiet dinner..



Kay admiring the abbayahs



January 16, 2011 Kay's Journal American Women's Group Lecture

American Womens’ Group Mtg, 11:30AM, in the Ramee Hotel located by the port. The guest speaker for today was Maurizio Tossi, Italian Archaeologist, who spoke on “Arabs of the Sea” along with a slide presentation on artifacts discovered dating back to 4000BC. First signs of the Arab population dates back to 600AD. Muscat during this period was the only entrance to the Persian Gulf and Muscat could only be reached by sea. The harnessing of the sea made possible the conquering of the seas. Their openness in trading with other countries, establishing these friendships, was their key to survival. Tossi also demonstrates how “kingship” was necessary for “kinship”...fundamental necessity to create a sound government for the tribes at that The seaman working the dhows main source of food was dates, dried fish and guessing dried limes. Frankincense became the chief commodity for trade with Yemen, Jordan & Somalia. Traders sailing into the Oman seaports were from China, India & Portugal. Slave trade from Zanzibar was very popular with the Omani’s long before our slave trade with Africa.

Omans’ surrounding mountains were aquifers for the country’s agriculture. The people constructed a system of water irrigation using the “falaj” (underground streams flowing out of the these majestic peaked mountains).The “Falaj” originates at the foot of the mountain, where the hot, sulphurous spring water gushes from underground and flows through an open trough, a long narrow depression like a gutter and trickles down through the village In former times, the water actually passed through the kitchens of the old mud/brick homes allowing the residents to scoop up the water for cooking, drinking and for absolution (washing of the feet before entering the mosque) for laundry and provided water for the animals. Believe these troughs were made with mud and dried hay or possibly palm fronds - some go on for miles. It is, even today, in some remote areas, the villages’ main source of irrigation.

Many of these archaeological digs have uncovered artifacts of bone fragments, walled villages, pottery, arrowheads, fish netting along with ropes and shelled jewelry. Oman is a haven for the many archaeological teams from France, Italy and the U.S.A. I believe I mentioned Chris, a young archaeologist from the University of Pennsylvania who is a friend of the Bosch’s, whom we met on our first day for lunch at a café called Darcy’s.

The morning meeting was not only educational but a great intro for one just entering the country as a tourist. Gives a a bit more insight into the actual origins of the country and arouses one’s curiosity to discover more. The women in attendance along with the U.S. Ambassador’s wife, Sandy, were British, Indian and Omani. Elos, David’s Mother was there with her daughter in law, Cecelia, David’s brother Paul’s wife. We had not seen them since Aniesa and Eric’s wedding in D.C. We will have many more opportunities to visit with them a bit longer in their home. Hotel served Nescafe, tea & little sandwiches with cookies. Leslie’s table favors were chocolates designed as sheards & “turtle” shaped cookies. Turtles are held in high esteem by the Omani’s and is considered an honor to have one associated with you. Tossi mentioned that in many of the mass grave sites they found the bones had been re-assembled in the shape of a “turtle” to show reverence to the deceased.

We drove from the Ramee Hotel to the Al Bustan Hotel to join David and Roger for an absolutely incredible buffet lunch. The presentation of the food was exquisite. Sitting on the patio overlooking the swimming pool cascading down onto the beach was a spectacular site. The weather could not have been more perfect for such a delectable feast. This called for a short afternoon nap before heading off to the “Bait Al Zubair” Museum. Before entering the museum there is an outdoor display of beautifully painted Arabian Oryz’s, all individual of one another and a distinct work of art on someone’s behalf. (The Oryz is the African antelope having slightly curved horns). Interesting and cultural pieces inside. Lovely gift shop showing local dress, jewelry, and articles used for self-defense. Just a short stroll frm here was the newly constructed Sultan’s palace and the new government buildings. Beautifully and tastefully done in the architecture style of the Omani culture. The Sultan has set up an elaborate “beautification” project in the portal section and following the coastal walk leading onto the highways taking one out into the other regions of Muscat.
After 7:30PM so Leslie called ahead and ordered take-out from the “Restaurant”. Indian food of chicken, marsala, dal and rice. We ate dinner out on the Bosch’s rooftop. Quite peaceful.

Visit of Kay and Roger Heigel - Kay's Journal Jan 14 - 15, 2011

Our old Saudi friends Roger and Kay Heigel have come to visit us here in Oman and we are so excited to be able to show them this country.  They have not been back to the Middle East since leaving Saudi Arabia over 25 years ago.  Kay keeps a diary of their daily activities and so, with her permission we are going to put their impressions of Oman and the daily activities we were up to while they were here.

January 14, 2011 - Bosch’s picked us up at Muscat airport 10:30 pm with a tour en-route home driving back to Qantab. Stopped for pickup of zataar and cheese on Pita bread from a well-known Lebanese bakery. Arrived at David and Leslie’s place in Qantab by midnight. Talked to catch up, make plans for first day, unpack and were in bed by 1:30 am.

Testing the gold Karat

January 15, 2011 – Breakfast on rooftop. Grab out gym bags for later in the day – Dave drove through town and stopped at Rameesh Guesline hotel confirming AWG meeting on the 16th. Met Chris (archeologist) at Darcy’s Kitchen at noon. (funny guy, categorizing pottery sherds from previous dig,)went to the Al Bustan hotel to use gym. Beautiful grounds. Leslie and David took out membership for us to use while here. All worked out, trying not to let the jetlag take over – Drove to gold craftsman, Siddiq Jewlers. Showed him my gold – checked each pieace for karat of gold (9, 14, 18, 24) separated all pices into individual groups – removed stones; chips of diamonds on jewelry. After an hour he calculated weight of pieces – totaled a  nice amount in omani riyals. Some of this was paid in cash riyals and some was in a check made out to cash. Took these riyals straight to a money changed and changed into new $100 bills with some omr yet to convert. (using riyals while here, repay from our checking on our return.) Having a few pieces made - jacket gold earrings, cross created with Amsterdam diamonds, Mom’s gold loop ear ring made to match existing one. Black and white pearl necklace shortened in length. Earnings made from the remaining pieces. Dashed from here over to the souk. Met Murthada at his shop in the souk. He gave us tea and invitations to the opening of the Seyyida Ghalya’s museum on the 18th. Drove through palace area with its government buildings – majestic, lovely architecture, beautiful highways, landscaping (plethora of foliage – Ladybird Johnson would be delighted!) Lampposts all along highways, along the port walks, men in dishdashas walking everywhere – in clean bright white with Omanie tassel at the neckline. “kummah” hats in different designs/colors also men wear the “mussar”, (represents a tie, cannot attend a business meeting without – considered an insult, this mussar is sometimes wrapped over the kummah to give structure to the turbin. The mussars color and design can be individual tastes. Women’s faces are exposed, wearing abbayah’s with trim on sleeves, neckline, and scarf – sequins, pearls, sliver/gold embroidery on their headscarves. Wear more colorful clothes underneath – high heels, make –up, nails all quite attractive – very fashionable. Ate at the Capital Area Yacht Club. Club sandwiches no bacon, house salad cooked veggies and perfect mini bottles of wine.

Leslie's favorite fish - Valentine Puffer in their aquarium

Aniesa and Leslie's catch - Arabian Blue Dottyback in David's Aquarium