Woman with peppers drying in window

More chillies hanging out to dry in Paro windows

Bhutanese weaver takes several months for one piece

Bhutan weavings are supposed to be the most intricate in the world...these cost about $1,000 each

Second Highest Peak in Bhutan from near fort guarding pass

Fort protecting pass from Tibet and snow capped mountain in the background

October 1 Paro and back to Chiang Mai

Rising early to pack and check out of our cute hotel, we drove along the Paro valley floor about 12 kilometers to the ruined fort called Drukgyel Dzong, which was built in 1649 to defend against Tibetan invaders. It has a secure passage to access river water, and a trick entry to tempt invaders into a courtyard where they could be easily disposed of. It guards a pass coming from Tibet and even now there is apparently some smuggling trade moving through the pass. Tall old cypress trees with pine cones attract an unusual bird called a Spotted Nutcracker.

We next drove back into Paro to see the Druk Choeding, built in 1525 by one of the prince abbots. It contains a prominent statue of the present Buddha and also has a temple built by a member of the royal family so it is used by them frequently.

The Paro Dzong was built in 1644 on the site of a monastery built there almost 1,000 years earlier, with an associated watchtower above that is now used as the national museum, closed since the recent earthquake. It is a good example of Bhutanese architecture.

We left for the airport after watching an archery competition, and our direct flight took about two and a half hours to reach Bangkok, where we had an hour and a half to clear immigration before catching the last flight out to Chiang Mai. Our taxi was not sure he could make it to our building due to the flooding, but the water had receded, leaving a lot of mud on the roads but no deep water.

Our building's restaurant owner was sitting with friends on the steps as we arrived, and he helped us carry our bags up to the 15th floor, as the elevator was still out of commission although electricity had just been restored after 3 days of being without. So we slept in air-conditioned splendor in our own bed for the first time in a month.

Our apartment building area had about three feet of water. Thus the water had gone over the building entry steps and into the kitchen, offices, lobby area, mini mart and elevator shafts, covered our bikes parked downstairs, and left smelly mud everywhere. I imagine it will take a few weeks to get it cleaned up. In the meantime we will be getting plenty of exercise just climbing the stairs to the apartment.

Paro Dzong built in 1600's

Verditer's Flycatcher

Rufous sibia?

Green Backed Tit?

Scarlet Minivets Decorate Treetop at 10,000 ft. elevation

White Throated Laughing Thrush

Magpie in flight

Birds we have seen in Bhutan

(Partial list - many were seen but not identified)

Verditers Fly catcher
Blue whistling thrush
Black billed magpie
Yellow billed blue magpie
White capped water redstarts (renamed River chat)
Oriental white eye
Yellow billed chough
White throated laughing thrush
Rufous capped babbler
Scarlet minivet
White wagtail
Grey wagtail
White throated fantail
Ashy Drongo
Large billed crow
Common myna
Oriental turtle dove
White throated kingfisher
Grey-backed shrike
Yellow breasted green finch
Brown dipper
Red-vented bulbul
Common hoopoe
Long-tailed shrike
Eurasian Jay
Darjeeling woodpecker
Common kestrel
Rufus sibia
Plumbious water redstart
Blue whistling sun thrush
Spotted nutcracker
White browse fulvetta
Green backed tit
White-collared black bird
Rock pigeon
Tawny owl

Tea at our hotel Gantley Palace

Arrived at Tiger's Nest

Taktshang Goemba "Tiger's Nest Monastery

September 30 Paro Tiger's Nest

Today we were up and out the door by 7:30am heading toward the very famous Taktshang Goemba "Tiger's Nest Monastery" that hangs on the cliffside about 1,000 meters up above the valley floor just a little outside of Paro. As Leslie is already limping around with her left hip issue we decided to take the mules up the mountain to the drop off point. From there you have to walk down along the cliffs past a waterfall and then up on the other side of the cliff to the Monastery which is believed to have been built in 1629 originally. A fire in 1998 destroyed the main structure which was rebuilt in 2000. The views of the Paro valley as you climb are outstanding. This hike is on every tourist's itinerary and for those trekking this is used as the first day acclimatization exercise.
We enjoyed our lunch at the cafe and viewing area at the half way point on our way back down. It took us a little over 2 hours to walk down and we were very happy to have our hiking poles. It was a bright sunny day so we saw some interesting birds on the way up. At the cafe stop on the way up for morning coffee we met another guide that was carrying binoculars so we asked our guide if he might know something about birds and help us identify some of those we had pictures of but had problems identifying. Turns out that fellow was a trekking guide with specialization in birds and used by National Geographic. So with his help we identified more of the birds that we will post separately as our bird list. We were very tired after this hike ( altitude starting is about 2,200 meters) so were happy to have a tea in the hotel courtyard, repack our bags as we will be flying back to Thailand later tomorrow afternoon, and have an early evening.

Sept. 29 Probjikha to Paro

We left our guest house before 8AM as we had a long drive and wanted to do some birdwatching along the way, particularly at one of the national parks. We were held up at one point for 20 minutes by a road crew asphalting potholes and areas os road that had been washed out by the big rains here, but took advantage of this to walk up the road and saw a few interesting new birds including an owl.

The weather going back to the west was so much brighter that we were able to see snow-capped mountains, forested slopes and beautiful valleys, which had all been covered in mist.

We reached Paro before dark and checked into our cute hotel, which was originally the palace of the Governor of Paro, and which has commanding views of the valley and the Paro Dzong. It also has at least intermittent wireless Internet service.

White- capped mountains visible on way back

Leslie with borrowed computer sending email from patio while dog observes

Black Necked Cranes we would have seen if we came in November

Monks in monastery courtyard practice celebration dance

mustard seed growing in bright yellow terrace farms

Home of woman to marry King in October

video of school kids cheering as we go by

Sept. 28 Bumthang to Phobjikha Valley

At breakfast we chatted with the hotel's two other guests, one Swiss gentleman who was visiting his Swiss friend who had married a Bhutanese girl, settled down and established a factory for Swiss cheese as well a a beer plant, and the second a Dutchman who had been on the Buddha Air flight to see Everest the day before the same flight crashed in Kathmandu with all 19 aboard killed.

On our way out of Bumthang, we noticed people lined up along the roadside and learned that the chief monk of the private monastery we visited yesterday was coming to our hotel to have a hot stone bath like we did. He will bless the people as he goes along. Several hundred schoolchildren had lined up, and cheered us as we went past.

We also saw a group of British motor cyclers traveling on Indian made Royal Enfield 500cc motorcycles, and several more groups of bicyclists.

We drove up to the pass at over 3,300 meters, down to Trongsa, stopped at a riverside restaurant for lunch, then proceeded down to Phobjikha Valley at 2,900 meters, the highest place we will sleep in Bhutan. We are staying in a guest house owned by the 15th Century monastery next to it called Gangte Goemba, and we have an excellent view down to the valley. The monks were practicing their dance ceremony as we visited, and we were allowed to photograph without any problems.

The valley is an important winter home and protected sanctuary for the endangered Black-Necked Crane, but when we went down to the crane information center to locate the one old crane that had stayed here for the summer, we were told that he had passed away a couple of months ago. We did see their video on these fascinating birds, which breed and summer in Tibet, and winter in a this valley and a few others in Bhutan.

The guest house does not have wireless Internet, so we can not use our IPad, but one of the monks let us use his laptop with cellphone data card to let people know we made it here OK. Tomorrow we will be in a hotel in the metropolis of Paro, which will probably have wireless so we will be able to send out our blog. We learned that our apartment area in Chiang Mai was flooded. Emails from the expat group and also the American consulate where advising of closures and other details. Guess we are missing the adventure there. Hopefully it will be all over before we get back on October 1st.

Peacock Swallowtail butterfly

Video monk return Kharchung Monestery

A returning monk

Welcoming band for returning monks

Entry door to first King's Palace

School children love to have their picture taken

Laundry chores for young monks

Orphan children taken in by monks

September 27, 2011 a sunny day in Bumthang, Bhutan

We had our first sunny day since arriving in Bhutan and the scenery is definitely more spectacular when you can actually see it. This morning a breakfast we had some wonderful Swiss cheese and local honey that are made here in the Bumthang valley. A Swiss man started bringing in Jersey cows and started the cheese factory, a beer brewery, and fuel efficient smokeless wood stoves like the one in our room for heating over 25 years ago. We had some of Red Panda beer last night and we non beer drinkers thought it was good. We had an early start to explore the Chokhor valley mainly by car because Leslie is still having a sore left hip and is trying to see some improvement so she can hike to Tiger's Nest Monastery in a couple of days. This area is filled with various monasteries, the majority of which are the Tibetan yellow hat sect, which is not supported by the government.

Our first stop was the Jampey Lhakhang which was built in 659 by the Tibetan King. The inner kora path around the chapel is lined with old murals that are covered with a cloth to protect them. This was the most active temple that we have seen thus far in Bhutan with numbers of pilgrims circumambulating and spinning the prayer wheels.

The Kurjey Lhakhang is a large and active complex of three temples, the oldest one being built in 1652. The first King of Bhutan built the second temple in 1900 and in 1984 the Queen mother built the third temple.

We then crossed over the river to the east side of the valley and went up to the Kharchung Monestery which is also from the yellow hat sect of Buddhism. It was interesting to go into their main assembly hall and see all the Tibetan brighter colors again. While we were there the monks were returning to the monastery after having been gone to a meditation area for the rainy season. With a band playing above the gate way to welcome the long line of monks back to the Monastery, we had quite a spectacle to watch. We were the only tourists there and we just happened to be there at the right time.

On our way to a typical Bhutanese farm house for a picnic lunch, we stopped at Tamshing Goemba built in 1501. Here there is a chain-mail armour weighing 25 kilos and it is an auspicious act to carry it on you shoulders like a mantle around the temple three times. Young orphaned children have been taken in by the monks so they are on the grounds playing, and doing chores such as laundry.

We ate lunch in the kitchen area of a farm house in the middle of an apple orchard. After lunch we were served a local alcoholic spirit, arak, in which some cordyceps ( a wormlike fungus) were fermenting in the jug. A parasitic fungus that's just eaten a caterpillar is thought to boost energy, clear phlegm and help sexual dysfunction. I did not finish my small cup full but David polished off his. After lunch we went for a short hike to see a painting on a cliff and then stopped at the Wangdichholing which was the first King's palace. It was interesting to see the use of brighter colors than are used now.

On returning to our hotel we had a hot stone herbal bath. Basically a big fire is made and the water in wood tubs are heated by adding hot stones that have been heated in the fire. The stones are at one end of the tub and there is some wood separating the stones from you. It was an interesting experience and quiet relaxing.

Trongsa Dzong and watch tower above

Trongsa Dzong administrative section

Trongsa watch tower and birding

Sleeping dogs, drying chilies and prayer wheels

Video Trongsa Dzong

Grey wagtail

White capped water redstart

Monk at Trongsa Dzong

White throated fantail

Blue Whistling thrush acting like a fantail

Oriental Spotted Dove eating sunflower seeds

Verditer's Flycatcher trying to avoid the rain

Sept. 26 Trongsa to Bumthang

We started walking toward the Tzong and looking for birds as we walked, and then our car picked us up for the last kilometer or so. Built in the 1600's, the Dzong is located on a strategic precipice guarding three valleys, and contains both a monastery and operating government offices.

We drove up to a pass 3425 meters high, passed a group of bicyclers on our way down, and arrived at the fairly broad Bumthang Valley, which contains several towns and villages, by about 4PM. It is still raining about half the time, so we are missing much of the spectacular scenery. Hope we are luckier in the next few days.

Sent from my iPad

A brief moment of sunshine in all the cloud and rain

Traditional farm house

September 25th Punakha to Trongsa

We viewed the Punakha Dzong on a very rainy day but it was amazing despite the weather and it being empty because it is the winter residence of the country's religious leader, and it is still summer for another month. Punakha Dzong was built by the first leader who united the country, Shabdrung, in the 1600's. He had placed a sacred relic inside one of the dzong's temples, and several Tibetan armies invaded Bhutan to try to take the relic, but were not able to overcome the Dzong 's defenses. All the kings must be coronated here, and the present king will be married here in a few weeks, so they are fixing it up for the ceremony.
The road from Punakha to Trongsa is slow, with mudslides, potholes, big drop-offs and sharp corners and crosses passes that are over 3,000 meters high, taking over four hours to cover just 125 kilometers. We stopped to do some birding along the road, seeing about 20 spectacular Scarlet Minivets, as well as several White-Capped Water Redstarts, a Black-Billed Magpie, Grey Wagtails, and several other species.
We arrived at our Yangkhill Resort at dusk, and were given a room with a great view of the Dzong and the valley below. The Trongsa dzong has a spectacular setting. QAfter supper we retired early.

Main assembly hall (left building) Punakha Dzong

David on bridge to Punakha Dzong

Video Punakha Dzong

Punakha Dzong

David trying out his archery skills in Punakha

Our car, guide, Chenchoin, grey gho and driver, Yeshi, in plaid gho looking on

Archery team celebrate a hit by doing the "crane dance"

Dochu La Pass with 108 chortens at 3140 M in memory of fallen soldiers

September 24, 2011 Thimphu to Punakha

We headed out the door with our luggage around 8:30am to do some sight seeing in Thimphu as well as errands like cashing some money at the bank ( no ATMs) and getting postcards and stamps. We went first to the National Memorial Chorten, followed by the Folk Heritage museum, a weaving factory, a paper making factory and also the National Institute for Zorig Chusum which provides training in Bhutan's traditional crafts of painting, woodcarving, embroidery and statue making. The prices for the woven ladies skirts, kira, were very expensive. The silk one I was looking at cost over $1,000! They did assure me that would take credit cards. The Folk museum was a restored Bhutanese home or rammed earth and wood construction that was interesting. It continued to rain on the 3 hour drive to Punakha to go 45 miles.
The road was paved to a certain extent but extremely windy as we climbed up to Dochu La pass (3,140 M) where there is a collection of 108 chortens. We had lunch at a hotel just past there where on some clear days you could see the Bhutan Himalaya, but it was raining so we could hardly see beyond the terrace. We had requested the driver take us to the Amankora luxury hotel for tea. The hotel has only 8 rooms renting for close to $1,000 per night. The place is a beautiful old house that used to belong to the former Queen mother. Coming back from tea we stopped along the river to watch an archery competition, known here as Dha.
Nearly all villages in the kingdom boast an archery range and each dzong has a space set aside nearby for a bha cho (field of target). Competitions are a riot of color and excitement, with two teams in traditional dress shooting at small wooden targets placed 140m apart (Olympic standard is 50m).
The distance is so great that team members gather dangerously close to the target to yell back how good the archer's aim was. This is often accompanied by howls, chanting, encouragement and jokes. Members of the opposing team may shout back how terrible the archer's aim is and make ribald remarks. When an arrow hits the target, team-mates perform a celebratory slow-motion dance and sing the praises of the shooter, who tucks a colored scarf into his belt.
One archer came running up wanting his picture taken with his bow and honorary scarfs for hitting the target. He then offered to let David take a try, but at a closer, safer target about 50 yards away. David took a few shots, each time rewarded with shouts of amusement (or mock fear) as the arrow did not get too close the target.
Tradition has it that women are not allowed to touch an archer's bow, and it is believed to decrease performance if an archer sleeps with a woman the night before a contest. The traditional Bhutanese archery equipment is a long bamboo bow. Most archers nowadays use a state-of-the-art carbonite Hoyt brand bow with a complicated-looking pulley system that releases the arrows with tremendous speed but the village people we saw were proud of their bamboo bows.
We then drove to the Punatsangchu cottage where we have a nice clean room with a view of the river, an overhead fan and mosquito coils. Internet is available in the dining area. No DVD player could be found so we read our books and had an early night.

Video of Khuru Dart game

Khuru Dart Game

September 23, 2011 Thimpu, Bhutan Blessed Rainy Day

Today is Blessed Rainy Day, a holiday marking the end of the monsoon season in Bhutan. On this day all natural water resources in the country are considered to be sanctifying and citizens are encouraged to take an outdoor bath to be cleansed of "bad deeds, obstructions and defilements" and accumulated bad karma. Families traditionally gather for a meal of thup (porridge) at breakfast time. The holiday also marks the end of the farming season and the beginning of the harvest season. Government offices, schools, and institutions are closed for the day so that limits tourist activities but there are always other things happening.

Starting at around 8am this morning a group of young men out on the field behind the Bhutan Suites where we are staying setting up for a Khuru game. Khuru, a traditional dart game is also a festive game. Unlike the darts we use, Bhutanese darts are bigger, they are made of wood with a five-inch nail hammered at the bottom and bird feathers pinned at the top. This is an outdoor game where the darts are thrown at targets placed between a distances of about 40 meters. The players are wearing the traditional clothes, gho, and then additional sashes of bright colors as they make personal hits on the target. Both sides seem to do a little chant and dance if someone hits their respective sandbag target. It is now 5:30pm and the game is still going on and it went on all day even in the rain. We had our binoculars out to learn the fine points of the game and at the end of the day walked over to the field to take a video clip and get some pictures. Today David is still not well so he did not come out touring in the morning but did some bird watching and also enjoyed the dart game.

Leslie went to the Chang Gangkha Lhakhang temple just behind the hotel and had the sacred water offering as well as a wood tap on the head. The temple was busy with people bringing their children for special blessings. There was a lovely view from the outer terrace over the valley. We then drove to a nunnery stopping for pictures of the Trashi Chhoe Dzong, and also drove to a highpoint where a new large gold Buddha statue is being constructed. We stopped back at the hotel to pick up David for lunch at the Bhutan Kitchen and had a nice buffet lunch. We walked the main street and saw the only police roundabout with the policeman directing traffic. It continued to rain so we went back to the hotel and managed to commandeer a DVD player. In Katmandu we had purchased a couple of movies with Bhutan and Tibetan themes. We watched Bhutanese movie "travelers and magicians" and will watch the Hollywood "7 years in Tibet" after dinner.

The architecture of the houses and other monastic buildings here in Bhutan has its main roots in Tibet. The hierarchy of floors in a typical Bhutanese houses start with the simple lower ground floor as shelter for livestock, with upper levels used for living and religious purposes. The foundation is laid with stones placed in a trench and built up to a height of 50 cm above the ground. Walls are usually made of stone in central and eastern Bhutan, and of compacted mud offering a strong and curable structure in the west. Traditionally, the windows on the lower floor are smaller than those on the upper floors. A cutout of curved trefoil motif called a horzhing is characteristic of all windows we have seen thus far in Bhutan. I have looked on the internet but have only seen slight discussion of these being of Persian influence but when we saw them it immediately made us think of Moorish architecture. Below the high-shingled roofs, there are large open spaces used for drying and above doors and windows they place elaborately painted timber cornices. Houses can have a festive appearance when painted with floral, animal and religious motifs. Some of the most common patterns represent the lotus, the eight auspicious symbols, mythical animals and large red phalluses. The phallus is supposed to ward away evil, and many houses are decorated with carved wooden phalluses hung at the four corners or over the door. A prayer flag can be seen on the centre of the roof of all Buddhist homes. What is strikingly different from the Tibetan homes is the colors used in the decoration. In Tibet the colors were the strong primarily Buddhist colors of red, blue, green, white, yellow, and black. Here in Bhutan the color pallet is much more earth toned, grey, ochre, clay, navy, and cream. This color pallet is also used in the furniture and clothing.

There is a royal wedding happening here in Bhutan on October 13th and I will need to try and watch it on the Internet.

Trefoil window at Chang Gangkha Lhakhang