September 27, 2011 a sunny day in Bumthang, Bhutan

We had our first sunny day since arriving in Bhutan and the scenery is definitely more spectacular when you can actually see it. This morning a breakfast we had some wonderful Swiss cheese and local honey that are made here in the Bumthang valley. A Swiss man started bringing in Jersey cows and started the cheese factory, a beer brewery, and fuel efficient smokeless wood stoves like the one in our room for heating over 25 years ago. We had some of Red Panda beer last night and we non beer drinkers thought it was good. We had an early start to explore the Chokhor valley mainly by car because Leslie is still having a sore left hip and is trying to see some improvement so she can hike to Tiger's Nest Monastery in a couple of days. This area is filled with various monasteries, the majority of which are the Tibetan yellow hat sect, which is not supported by the government.

Our first stop was the Jampey Lhakhang which was built in 659 by the Tibetan King. The inner kora path around the chapel is lined with old murals that are covered with a cloth to protect them. This was the most active temple that we have seen thus far in Bhutan with numbers of pilgrims circumambulating and spinning the prayer wheels.

The Kurjey Lhakhang is a large and active complex of three temples, the oldest one being built in 1652. The first King of Bhutan built the second temple in 1900 and in 1984 the Queen mother built the third temple.

We then crossed over the river to the east side of the valley and went up to the Kharchung Monestery which is also from the yellow hat sect of Buddhism. It was interesting to go into their main assembly hall and see all the Tibetan brighter colors again. While we were there the monks were returning to the monastery after having been gone to a meditation area for the rainy season. With a band playing above the gate way to welcome the long line of monks back to the Monastery, we had quite a spectacle to watch. We were the only tourists there and we just happened to be there at the right time.

On our way to a typical Bhutanese farm house for a picnic lunch, we stopped at Tamshing Goemba built in 1501. Here there is a chain-mail armour weighing 25 kilos and it is an auspicious act to carry it on you shoulders like a mantle around the temple three times. Young orphaned children have been taken in by the monks so they are on the grounds playing, and doing chores such as laundry.

We ate lunch in the kitchen area of a farm house in the middle of an apple orchard. After lunch we were served a local alcoholic spirit, arak, in which some cordyceps ( a wormlike fungus) were fermenting in the jug. A parasitic fungus that's just eaten a caterpillar is thought to boost energy, clear phlegm and help sexual dysfunction. I did not finish my small cup full but David polished off his. After lunch we went for a short hike to see a painting on a cliff and then stopped at the Wangdichholing which was the first King's palace. It was interesting to see the use of brighter colors than are used now.

On returning to our hotel we had a hot stone herbal bath. Basically a big fire is made and the water in wood tubs are heated by adding hot stones that have been heated in the fire. The stones are at one end of the tub and there is some wood separating the stones from you. It was an interesting experience and quiet relaxing.