Saturday, May 10, 2014

May 9 Turpan oasis ruined city and Buddhist caves

We arrived at Turpan station at 7:30 AM Beijing official time, which is equivalent to 5:30 AM local time, we were met by our guide Abdullah outside the station. We had met Abdullah in 2011on the high-altitude train en route to Lhasa, Tibet, where he had impressed us by helping us to order some food when the menu was all in Chinese, and also impressed us by the loyalty of his group of Malaysian tourists, who had been on Central Asian trips with him.  So we had said that we would contact him when we were ready to do the Silk Road ourselves!

We first drove about 40 Km to Turpan from the station, checked in, had breakfast before the serving ended, and then showered and washed our clothes. Getting back into our minivan we headed for Astana Tombs which date from 273 AD and the 10 km area was used for over 500 years.  Only three of the  subterranean graves are open to the public for viewing  of the murals on the walls. All the artifacts found, which are very well preserved due to the arid climate, we will see in the Urumqi museum. One of the caves had birds and plants depicted that were not from the local area but from southern China.

We then drove along the Flaming mountains, given that name because of their red color and pointed peaks and the heat. Turpan is below sea level about 500 ft. The next stop was Tuyuq Village, a traditional village in the middle of this grape-growing region. The hot dry climate is ideal for grapes, and the region use them for wine and each family have grape-drying buildings to make raisins (about 8 different varieties). The stalks of grapes are hung on wood poles and left to dry in the heat and wind but out of direct sunlight.  In the village we stopped for home-made lunch at a farmer's home who Abdullah had known for almost 20 years, watched the women make home-made noodles and dumplings, which were quite tasty. We wandered around the village while Abdullah and our host went to the mosque for Friday prayers, located some interesting old tombs (one of a Muslim saint) beneath the stark rock mountains, and being offered many opportunities to buy fresh mulberries and varieties of raisins from girls with baskets of their products.

The village is very old, having an ancient Buddhist cave system almost a kilometer in length with extensive carvings from 800 AD to 1000AD, but the path leading along the cliff face to the caves had been closed due to danger of avalanche and cave-in's, so we were not able to see them.

Raisen dying rooms on top of the houses 

We next visited the largest ruined city in Western China, Idikut or Gauchang in Chinese. This city's walls were over 3 miles long, and 38 feet high and 40 feet thick. After serving as capital of several Uygher kingdoms from the 9th through 14th centuries


AD, it was destroyed by forces associated with Jun'gar. We walked among the ruins, seeing the remnants of palaces and the main Buddhist temple.

Our last stop was for the day was for the few remaining  murals at Bezaklik caves.  This Buddhist caves were carved in the  mountain sides high above a river bed. Most of the murals have been destroyed or carted off by various European explorers. The murals in this area were stolen by a German  and were destroyed in WWII.

The Uyghur men wear an interesting foldable hat. The different designs used to tell from which place the man came.
Kashgar hat with small almonds design

Modern design hat

Bezaklik caves

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