Sunday, November 28, 2010
27 November 2010 Bosch's meet Queen Elizabeth
Yesterday my mother and father were invited by the British Ambassador to a garden party in honor of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and her husband HRH the Duke. Since my father was not well enough to sit for a long outdoor wait and then stand for protocol, my mother asked me to take her, after checking with the Ambassador that this would be all right. So I got up, got into my best suit, and was taken from their home in Haramel a few hundred yards to the Ambassador's residence in my parent's Diwan car.
We arrived at about 9:15 AM, as we were given special VIP privileges, while most people arrived at 8AM and parked in a nearby Boat Marina and were shuttled up in buses. We were met by an Embassy staff lady and taken to the small shaded VIP pavilion, where there were about a dozen chairs and about twice that number of people milling around. The rest of the garden had about 300 guests, all of them British except for Ambassadors and their mates from other countries, including the US Ambassador. I found a seat for Mother and we were offered some cookies and soft drinks, which I declined as there was not any likelyhood of an opportunity to go to the men's room! Our VIP area was initially populated mainly by Ministers of the Omani Government, and a couple of high military officers. Our host Ambassador Gukian stopped by periodically, and at one point he suggested that it would be nice if we sent one of my parents' books, The Doctor and the Teacher, which was about life during the period from 1955 to 1970 in Oman, to the Queen and Prince Phillip. We agreed to do so as soon as we returned to the house. He also asked me to place my mother in the first chair toward the walkway when the Queen's arrival was imminent.
Several people joined the VIP group for discussions, and some paid their respects to Mother, always asking about my father as well. One was the commandant of the Air Force, who said his wife always asked about her old teacher, Eloise. Another was Mohammed Riyami, who was very friendly, a former official in the Ministry of Information and I think a businessman now. Others were ministers, including the Minister of Commerce, Maqbul Sultan, the two Omani women ministers who controlled Tourism and Higher Education, respectively, and who sat next to Mother. She was also kept company by Madam Virginia, the widow of one of the Royal Family of Oman, who was originally from England. I had a chance to greet several of them, and particularly to say "Hello" to the Minister of State for Foreign Affairs, Yusif Alawi, who I had met with over 20 years before when obtaining his permission and support to form an American Business Council in Oman. He remembered the meeting, and said it was over twenty years before, which was correct. I also met Ahmed Makki, who is responsible for the finance function in the Government.
The British Foreign Minister's wife was brought over to chat, and then she sent over her husband to speak to my mother, who was the only non-Omani present who had been in Oman since 1955. Mom told them about some of the hardships of the old days, no air conditioning or public water supplies, endemic malaria, non-availability of many foods, etc. By about 10 am I moved my mother to the first chair on the Queen's route, and Madam Virginia sat on a small end table just behind her, while an older man, Brian Richey, sat on another end table. I was glad that neither table broke! They sat there because they could not be in the rear seating but needed to be up near where the Queen would pass.
At about this point everyone had been standing expectantly waiting for the Queen for about a half hour. After some bagpipe music, I finally spotted the Queen coming up the path to where we waited and alerted the VIP's waiting for her. The local American/British School band played "God Save the Queen" as people and the royal couple stood, and then we all clapped. The Queen and her husband walked up the path with the Ambassador, who led the Queen directly to Mom, introducing her as someone who had been here working since 1955, and had served the country well. Mom shook hands and the Queen asked what she did, and she explained that my father and she had been missionaries, he a surgeon and she a teacher, particularly of English. Mom mentioned some of the hardships, malaria, heat, etc. The Ambassador introduced me as well, and I shook hands with her, and said a few words supporting Mom's description of the early days. After a couple of minutes, the Queen passed down the line of other Ministerial VIP's, and Prince Phillip did the same, talking to those that the Queen just said "Hello" to. After greeting the 20 people in the VIP area, they then went through the line of Ambassadors and lower officials (another perhaps 40 people) and then wandered about in the garden with the Ambassador, greeting groups of ordinary British citizens who had been invited. The students kept their band and singers going. They toured some local handicraft makers, greeted the school kids, who gave them a synchnonized "Hip hip hooray", and then departed about an hour after arrival.
At this point some of the other Omani and British non-VIP's came up to greet Mom, and then the French Ambassador was brought over by Mohammed Riyami and said she wanted to see their sea shells. I told her that I would be doing a presentation on Omani shells on coming Tuesday at the Bustan Hotel, and that probably Dad would be there to answer any questions that I couldn't, and that she would be welcome then or at a private visit to the house. The US Ambassador and his wife then helped me take Mom to cross the uneven path out to where the car should come to pick us up. We had to wait a while as all the cars were trying to pick up their passengers. A British naval officer in full white dress uniform opened the door for Mom's car, which would have been a great picture. There were two warships standing just offshore and clearly visible, one British and one Omani, to provide protection. We finally left the Ambassador's residence after 11:30, having had an exciting opportunity to meet Queen Elizabeth.
We arrived at about 9:15 AM, as we were given special VIP privileges, while most people arrived at 8AM and parked in a nearby Boat Marina and were shuttled up in buses. We were met by an Embassy staff lady and taken to the small shaded VIP pavilion, where there were about a dozen chairs and about twice that number of people milling around. The rest of the garden had about 300 guests, all of them British except for Ambassadors and their mates from other countries, including the US Ambassador. I found a seat for Mother and we were offered some cookies and soft drinks, which I declined as there was not any likelyhood of an opportunity to go to the men's room! Our VIP area was initially populated mainly by Ministers of the Omani Government, and a couple of high military officers. Our host Ambassador Gukian stopped by periodically, and at one point he suggested that it would be nice if we sent one of my parents' books, The Doctor and the Teacher, which was about life during the period from 1955 to 1970 in Oman, to the Queen and Prince Phillip. We agreed to do so as soon as we returned to the house. He also asked me to place my mother in the first chair toward the walkway when the Queen's arrival was imminent.
Several people joined the VIP group for discussions, and some paid their respects to Mother, always asking about my father as well. One was the commandant of the Air Force, who said his wife always asked about her old teacher, Eloise. Another was Mohammed Riyami, who was very friendly, a former official in the Ministry of Information and I think a businessman now. Others were ministers, including the Minister of Commerce, Maqbul Sultan, the two Omani women ministers who controlled Tourism and Higher Education, respectively, and who sat next to Mother. She was also kept company by Madam Virginia, the widow of one of the Royal Family of Oman, who was originally from England. I had a chance to greet several of them, and particularly to say "Hello" to the Minister of State for Foreign Affairs, Yusif Alawi, who I had met with over 20 years before when obtaining his permission and support to form an American Business Council in Oman. He remembered the meeting, and said it was over twenty years before, which was correct. I also met Ahmed Makki, who is responsible for the finance function in the Government.
The British Foreign Minister's wife was brought over to chat, and then she sent over her husband to speak to my mother, who was the only non-Omani present who had been in Oman since 1955. Mom told them about some of the hardships of the old days, no air conditioning or public water supplies, endemic malaria, non-availability of many foods, etc. By about 10 am I moved my mother to the first chair on the Queen's route, and Madam Virginia sat on a small end table just behind her, while an older man, Brian Richey, sat on another end table. I was glad that neither table broke! They sat there because they could not be in the rear seating but needed to be up near where the Queen would pass.
At about this point everyone had been standing expectantly waiting for the Queen for about a half hour. After some bagpipe music, I finally spotted the Queen coming up the path to where we waited and alerted the VIP's waiting for her. The local American/British School band played "God Save the Queen" as people and the royal couple stood, and then we all clapped. The Queen and her husband walked up the path with the Ambassador, who led the Queen directly to Mom, introducing her as someone who had been here working since 1955, and had served the country well. Mom shook hands and the Queen asked what she did, and she explained that my father and she had been missionaries, he a surgeon and she a teacher, particularly of English. Mom mentioned some of the hardships, malaria, heat, etc. The Ambassador introduced me as well, and I shook hands with her, and said a few words supporting Mom's description of the early days. After a couple of minutes, the Queen passed down the line of other Ministerial VIP's, and Prince Phillip did the same, talking to those that the Queen just said "Hello" to. After greeting the 20 people in the VIP area, they then went through the line of Ambassadors and lower officials (another perhaps 40 people) and then wandered about in the garden with the Ambassador, greeting groups of ordinary British citizens who had been invited. The students kept their band and singers going. They toured some local handicraft makers, greeted the school kids, who gave them a synchnonized "Hip hip hooray", and then departed about an hour after arrival.
At this point some of the other Omani and British non-VIP's came up to greet Mom, and then the French Ambassador was brought over by Mohammed Riyami and said she wanted to see their sea shells. I told her that I would be doing a presentation on Omani shells on coming Tuesday at the Bustan Hotel, and that probably Dad would be there to answer any questions that I couldn't, and that she would be welcome then or at a private visit to the house. The US Ambassador and his wife then helped me take Mom to cross the uneven path out to where the car should come to pick us up. We had to wait a while as all the cars were trying to pick up their passengers. A British naval officer in full white dress uniform opened the door for Mom's car, which would have been a great picture. There were two warships standing just offshore and clearly visible, one British and one Omani, to provide protection. We finally left the Ambassador's residence after 11:30, having had an exciting opportunity to meet Queen Elizabeth.
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Nov. 21 Dubai to Muscat
We decided not to try and get up early as we were told traffic was bad starting before 7 AM, so we had a late breakfast and did some shopping, including getting a better camera so that we will not miss so many great shots, like the fox by the roadside. We finally left our hotel at about 1 pm and crossed the border at Hatta, which took only a reasonable delay to get out of the UAE. Then we drove to Shinas on Oman's northern coast for a late lunch of Indian food at a roadside restaurant, and drove home reaching there after dark, tired but happy with our few days adventures and Leslie's Chinese purchases.
Nov. 20 Khasab to Dubai
Nov. 20 Khasab-Dubai
We rose for an early breakfast and drove up the wadi to return on the same road we had come to Khasab on, so that we could retrieve our passports from the checkpoint. The scenery was impressive the second time, and we saw a fox along the road close and in full daylight, something I had never seen in Oman. Musandam still has a few leopards, wolves, and hyenas. We reached the checkpoint and retrieved our passports without any problem, and the same border guard was very happy that we enjoyed our visit.
This time when we reached Ziggy Bay Resort, Leslie was able to talk her way in as a possible American Women’s Group tour project, and we were given a full tour by their PR staff. Impressive but truly expensive, more than $1,000 per night. We had an excellent light lunch there for $40 each. They were operating hang gliders and ultralight aircraft, which David would like to try sometime. There was a gas fire at the snack bar as we were leaving, but it was extinguished with little damage.
We left for Dibba, then took the highway inland first west, then south to Dubai, reaching Leslie’s target of the Chinese Dragon Mall at about 4:30 PM. We shopped there for about 4 hours, had Chinese for dinner, and then drove out looking for a hotel, which took over an hour. We finally found one (Arabian Courtyard) in Dubai opposite the Museum, and were able to get a room with breakfast for $130, which is very good for a 4-Star hotel.
We rose for an early breakfast and drove up the wadi to return on the same road we had come to Khasab on, so that we could retrieve our passports from the checkpoint. The scenery was impressive the second time, and we saw a fox along the road close and in full daylight, something I had never seen in Oman. Musandam still has a few leopards, wolves, and hyenas. We reached the checkpoint and retrieved our passports without any problem, and the same border guard was very happy that we enjoyed our visit.
This time when we reached Ziggy Bay Resort, Leslie was able to talk her way in as a possible American Women’s Group tour project, and we were given a full tour by their PR staff. Impressive but truly expensive, more than $1,000 per night. We had an excellent light lunch there for $40 each. They were operating hang gliders and ultralight aircraft, which David would like to try sometime. There was a gas fire at the snack bar as we were leaving, but it was extinguished with little damage.
We left for Dibba, then took the highway inland first west, then south to Dubai, reaching Leslie’s target of the Chinese Dragon Mall at about 4:30 PM. We shopped there for about 4 hours, had Chinese for dinner, and then drove out looking for a hotel, which took over an hour. We finally found one (Arabian Courtyard) in Dubai opposite the Museum, and were able to get a room with breakfast for $130, which is very good for a 4-Star hotel.
Nov. 19 Khasab Dhow Trip
Nov. 19 Khasab dhow trip
We rose early as we had paid for a full day on a dhow for snorkeling and seeing the picturesque fjord-like coastline east of Khasab, where the stark mountains rise vertically from the clear sea. We boarded our boat, which was the largest one there and even had a second deck, and found seats at the front. The boat even had some toilets and showers below, and a room that had air conditioning. Probably 50 passengers were on board, including an American family of four from Dubai, about ten Germans, a few other Europeans, and the rest mostly Indians working in the UAE.
On our way to the first stop we saw a fisherman pull out and gaff a 5-foot long Black Tipped Reef Shark, which made people a bit worried about getting in the water! We saw small coastal villages and stopped at Telegraph Island, where the British had an observation post for shipping passing through the Hormuz Straits, and where we now snorkeled. The water was a bit cloudy and had small jellyfish, so we were not too impressed with the diving. The next stop was more of a swimming place, with less fish life. But it was fun to also see many dolphins, which the boats would drive to and try to get them to ride the bow wave. It became a bit crowded, with sometimes up to 8 boats trying to get close to the same pod of dolphins. We returned by 4 PM, about an hour before sunset, had supper at a local Indian place, and went back to our hotel.
We rose early as we had paid for a full day on a dhow for snorkeling and seeing the picturesque fjord-like coastline east of Khasab, where the stark mountains rise vertically from the clear sea. We boarded our boat, which was the largest one there and even had a second deck, and found seats at the front. The boat even had some toilets and showers below, and a room that had air conditioning. Probably 50 passengers were on board, including an American family of four from Dubai, about ten Germans, a few other Europeans, and the rest mostly Indians working in the UAE.
On our way to the first stop we saw a fisherman pull out and gaff a 5-foot long Black Tipped Reef Shark, which made people a bit worried about getting in the water! We saw small coastal villages and stopped at Telegraph Island, where the British had an observation post for shipping passing through the Hormuz Straits, and where we now snorkeled. The water was a bit cloudy and had small jellyfish, so we were not too impressed with the diving. The next stop was more of a swimming place, with less fish life. But it was fun to also see many dolphins, which the boats would drive to and try to get them to ride the bow wave. It became a bit crowded, with sometimes up to 8 boats trying to get close to the same pod of dolphins. We returned by 4 PM, about an hour before sunset, had supper at a local Indian place, and went back to our hotel.
Nov. 18 Dibba to Khasab, Musandam - Oman
Nov. 18 Dibba to Khasab (Oman)
We rose at dawn and backtracked into Dibba to see what we had missed travelling through at night. Picked up gas and Indian breakfast of eggs and parotas, and some directions to Musandam, which were not the most precise. After seeing the local Golden Tulip Hotel, which was full, we found that we were in the Oman part of Dhiba, which is also shared by two other states, Fujairah and Sharja. We passed a checkpoint and headed to the north and started up a mountain trail which lead to the Zigy Bay Resort, quite an expensive place that would not let us in for a coffee and a look, saying they were too full due to the ‘Id. We drove up the start of a wadi track on graded rock with wadi walls sometimes covered with plants like “hanging gardens”. After half an hour of not seeing any other vehicle, but good scenery and birds, we met a hired tourist vehicle with a local driver coming the other way. When we asked how far to Khasab, they said a few hours, but that only Omanis could pass the check point about half an hour up the road, so we would have to return to Dibba and go on another roundabout road for several hours to Sharja and Ras al-Khaimah and then to Khasab from the west. They said the rules had changed in the last few years, as before foreigners could also travel on our proposed route forward.
We decided we were fairly close so might as well see if we could get through with David’s Arabic. We climbed to 1100 meters (about 3,500 feet) on a winding track, then came down to 350 meters altitude into a large wadi with a small police (Wadi Bih) checkpoint closing the road. David got out and talked to the young officer who had come out of the adjacent building, who explained that he would like to let us in but that we were entering Oman from the UAE and had not passed a border post to check out of the UAE officially, so he could not allow it. We explained we had Omani parents (the Bosch elders) and that we just wanted to go to see Khasab and come back. He said perhaps as a favor he could let us in, but we would have to come back through the same checkpoint. After some discussion with his superior, it was agreed we would leave our passports with him and return in two days to pick them up. We had spent about 20 minutes at the remote post, and not a single vehicle had come into sight during that time.
We drove a few miles down the wadi and came upon an Islamic graveyard with very tall narrow stone markers, unlike anything seen elsewhere in Oman, as well as a circular stone structure like the base of an 'Um an Nar tomb, and a rectangular building with very large stones. We also saw come large cairns, and made a side trip to the Rowdah Bowl, a flat fertile valley a few kilometers away.
Then we climbed up a steep track with switchbacks to get the ridge of the mountain, at 3,300 feet, and drove along the ridge for several miles with huge mountains and wadis on all sides. Climbing again up steep swithbacks to over 5,000 feet, we passed below the highest peak in Musandam, Jebel Harim at almost 7,000 feet. We passed walled cultivated villages, mostly deserted, in extremely isolated positions on the surrounding slopes.
We then descended to about 3,000 feet, to a fertile flat plateau called Sayh Plateau, about a mile long and half a mile wide. It looked to have roughly 100 inhabitants. Then we went down a steep section again to reach the wadi floor at about 1,000 feet altitude, and proceeded several miles till we ran into tarmac and a checkpoint for entry to Khasab. We went straight to the Khasab Hotel, which had a modest but sizable room for $130 including breakfast, and took it. There were many local families celebrating ‘Id there, and cooking outside their rooms, which worried us a bit, but the night turned out to be quiet. It was nice to sleep in a bed in an air conditioned room!
We drove down the coast, saw the Golden Tulip Hotel, which was full, but we decided to splurge and had their dinner buffet, which was quite good, $50 each with wine. A room with breakfast was available the following day, as many people were leaving to return to the Emirates to work, but we decided that the $300 per night cost was not worth moving from our modest quarters.
We rose at dawn and backtracked into Dibba to see what we had missed travelling through at night. Picked up gas and Indian breakfast of eggs and parotas, and some directions to Musandam, which were not the most precise. After seeing the local Golden Tulip Hotel, which was full, we found that we were in the Oman part of Dhiba, which is also shared by two other states, Fujairah and Sharja. We passed a checkpoint and headed to the north and started up a mountain trail which lead to the Zigy Bay Resort, quite an expensive place that would not let us in for a coffee and a look, saying they were too full due to the ‘Id. We drove up the start of a wadi track on graded rock with wadi walls sometimes covered with plants like “hanging gardens”. After half an hour of not seeing any other vehicle, but good scenery and birds, we met a hired tourist vehicle with a local driver coming the other way. When we asked how far to Khasab, they said a few hours, but that only Omanis could pass the check point about half an hour up the road, so we would have to return to Dibba and go on another roundabout road for several hours to Sharja and Ras al-Khaimah and then to Khasab from the west. They said the rules had changed in the last few years, as before foreigners could also travel on our proposed route forward.
We decided we were fairly close so might as well see if we could get through with David’s Arabic. We climbed to 1100 meters (about 3,500 feet) on a winding track, then came down to 350 meters altitude into a large wadi with a small police (Wadi Bih) checkpoint closing the road. David got out and talked to the young officer who had come out of the adjacent building, who explained that he would like to let us in but that we were entering Oman from the UAE and had not passed a border post to check out of the UAE officially, so he could not allow it. We explained we had Omani parents (the Bosch elders) and that we just wanted to go to see Khasab and come back. He said perhaps as a favor he could let us in, but we would have to come back through the same checkpoint. After some discussion with his superior, it was agreed we would leave our passports with him and return in two days to pick them up. We had spent about 20 minutes at the remote post, and not a single vehicle had come into sight during that time.
We drove a few miles down the wadi and came upon an Islamic graveyard with very tall narrow stone markers, unlike anything seen elsewhere in Oman, as well as a circular stone structure like the base of an 'Um an Nar tomb, and a rectangular building with very large stones. We also saw come large cairns, and made a side trip to the Rowdah Bowl, a flat fertile valley a few kilometers away.
Then we climbed up a steep track with switchbacks to get the ridge of the mountain, at 3,300 feet, and drove along the ridge for several miles with huge mountains and wadis on all sides. Climbing again up steep swithbacks to over 5,000 feet, we passed below the highest peak in Musandam, Jebel Harim at almost 7,000 feet. We passed walled cultivated villages, mostly deserted, in extremely isolated positions on the surrounding slopes.
We then descended to about 3,000 feet, to a fertile flat plateau called Sayh Plateau, about a mile long and half a mile wide. It looked to have roughly 100 inhabitants. Then we went down a steep section again to reach the wadi floor at about 1,000 feet altitude, and proceeded several miles till we ran into tarmac and a checkpoint for entry to Khasab. We went straight to the Khasab Hotel, which had a modest but sizable room for $130 including breakfast, and took it. There were many local families celebrating ‘Id there, and cooking outside their rooms, which worried us a bit, but the night turned out to be quiet. It was nice to sleep in a bed in an air conditioned room!
We drove down the coast, saw the Golden Tulip Hotel, which was full, but we decided to splurge and had their dinner buffet, which was quite good, $50 each with wine. A room with breakfast was available the following day, as many people were leaving to return to the Emirates to work, but we decided that the $300 per night cost was not worth moving from our modest quarters.
Nov. 17 Muscat to Dibba, UAE
Nov. 17 Muscat to Dibba, UEA
We hastily packed the 4-wheel drive Pajero and left for Oman’s Musandam Peninsula, where we had never been before. It being the ‘Id, there were no reservations available on line, but we decided to just go and look for a place to stay when we got there, and to sleep in the car if no better alternative appeared.
We headed up the coastal road past the airport, Sib, Burka, and Sohar, passing the turnoff to Dubai through Hatta about half an hour past Sohar. Just before the mountains blocked our passage north, we crossed into the UAE at Khatamat Malalah with relatively little wait or hassle. Others were coming the other way into Oman and had to pay $55 each for their Oman visa.
When we reached Fujaira on the coast, we recognized our old favorite Persian restaurant on the corner of the Cornish Road, but spent 20 minutes getting around to it due to ‘Id traffic. It was unfortunately a big disappointment, as the food had deteriorated a great deal. And it took about an hour to get out of the parking lot and heading North toward Musandam! The traffic was unreal, and we crawled along for a couple of hours as it got dark, looking for any hotel along the way. The hotel in Fujaira that we had stayed in 18years ago was full when we drove in, and they did not know any hotel not yet booked. A small apartment hotel we found was booked for the next two nights. We reached the outskirts of Dibba by 8:00 pm, but found all the hotels full except the Meridien, which offered me a special rate of $500 for the night, which I declined with regret. This area is a high-rent area for upscale tourists.
We noticed that people were all camping on both sides of the road, and that some areas were designated for “Families Camping Only”. No wonder everyone camps when the hotels were so expensive! We passed through Dibba and a large cement plant on the outskirts without finding either a hotel or a clear road marked to Musandam, and were getting quite tired. We were looking for a quiet place to park the car and sleep, where we would not be bothered all night by car headlights and noise. Finally we pulled onto a dirt track leading toward a small mountain where we could only see a few house lights, passed the houses, when two women and an old man came out to see who was in their neighborhood. We explained that we were looking for a quiet wadi to sleep in and they pointed out a track they said went to their own quiet wadi. Sure enough, it lead to a dead end, and there was no traffic, so we spent all night without any noise. Not the best sleep though as we had forgotten our Excedrin PM!
We hastily packed the 4-wheel drive Pajero and left for Oman’s Musandam Peninsula, where we had never been before. It being the ‘Id, there were no reservations available on line, but we decided to just go and look for a place to stay when we got there, and to sleep in the car if no better alternative appeared.
We headed up the coastal road past the airport, Sib, Burka, and Sohar, passing the turnoff to Dubai through Hatta about half an hour past Sohar. Just before the mountains blocked our passage north, we crossed into the UAE at Khatamat Malalah with relatively little wait or hassle. Others were coming the other way into Oman and had to pay $55 each for their Oman visa.
When we reached Fujaira on the coast, we recognized our old favorite Persian restaurant on the corner of the Cornish Road, but spent 20 minutes getting around to it due to ‘Id traffic. It was unfortunately a big disappointment, as the food had deteriorated a great deal. And it took about an hour to get out of the parking lot and heading North toward Musandam! The traffic was unreal, and we crawled along for a couple of hours as it got dark, looking for any hotel along the way. The hotel in Fujaira that we had stayed in 18years ago was full when we drove in, and they did not know any hotel not yet booked. A small apartment hotel we found was booked for the next two nights. We reached the outskirts of Dibba by 8:00 pm, but found all the hotels full except the Meridien, which offered me a special rate of $500 for the night, which I declined with regret. This area is a high-rent area for upscale tourists.
We noticed that people were all camping on both sides of the road, and that some areas were designated for “Families Camping Only”. No wonder everyone camps when the hotels were so expensive! We passed through Dibba and a large cement plant on the outskirts without finding either a hotel or a clear road marked to Musandam, and were getting quite tired. We were looking for a quiet place to park the car and sleep, where we would not be bothered all night by car headlights and noise. Finally we pulled onto a dirt track leading toward a small mountain where we could only see a few house lights, passed the houses, when two women and an old man came out to see who was in their neighborhood. We explained that we were looking for a quiet wadi to sleep in and they pointed out a track they said went to their own quiet wadi. Sure enough, it lead to a dead end, and there was no traffic, so we spent all night without any noise. Not the best sleep though as we had forgotten our Excedrin PM!
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