Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Completeing the Camino de Santiago a second time

At the starting point of our 2008 Camino
We first have to mention that we did finish the Camino de Santiago! We know we dropped off the blog at some point in the journey but we did make it over the Pyrenees Mountains from St. Jean Pied-de Port to Roncesvalles in Spain. Leslie did get attacked by bed bugs in the Basque area just before getting to St. Jean Pied-de Port. This necessitated visiting the doctor to get the strong cortisone, anti-allergy and antibiotic pills for Leslie, although David had just the standard reaction to bedbug bites and needed no special treatment. It also required washing and drying all our clothes and gear in the hottest water and the hottest dryers so that we would not be a carrier of bed bugs onwards.   



In front of the Catherdral
After crossing the Pyrenees, which was a hard but exhilarating day, we enjoyed taking the bus to within 100km of Santiago. We stopped in our favorite towns along the way and as the bus passed sections of the “Way” we were amazed and how we could recall the trail and what happened each day.  One thing we noticed there were more Americans on the trail in Spain – all having seen the Charlie Sheen movie “The Way” – but Americans were still a small minority compared to French, Swiss, Germans, Dutch, and the many Spanish on the last sections. We walked the last 100km staying at the same places that we had in 2008. Leslie got sick (fever and chills) the night before the last 20 km of up and down terrain, so we took a taxi to our hotel in Santiago, where she was able to rest and recover. We had allowed a few extra days in Santiago to relish the accomplishment before traveling back to the USA. Leslie pulled herself together and on our last day we took a taxi back to our last point on the trail and walked the remaining 20km so we could honestly earn and collect our Compostella credential.

Monday, October 7, 2013

Sheep climb walls to eat high leaves

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Prehistoric dolmen on trail

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Sheep waiting for me to give them the appropriate go command

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Sheep and buron for shepherd

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Sept. 19 Figeac to Cajarc

 We wanted to take a taxi to up the hill above Figeac by cab 8km to Faycelles and walk about 24 km to Cajarc. We walked back to a cafe on a small plaza and asked him to call a taxi to come get us at this plaza. The taxi arrived just as we finished our coffee and we were pleased because the driver could speak some English. The town of Faycelles was very cute and had a church with a Pelerin stamp and offered self-serve hot coffee, tea and biscuits. We did not realize at the time that there would be no food or coffee places open the whole rest of the day!
Cross at Faycelles overlooking Lot valley

We started with lovely vistas over the valley Lot. The town we reached at noon that was supposed to have two restaurants we found disappointing, since both were closed and there was no other source of food anywhere along the way.  We arrive exhausted  and with no water only to find our 3 star hotel with tv about half kilometer out of town. We did a laundry and  hung it out on our balcony. We meet more formally the two Australian women walking with us at dinner. They had used a tour company to do all the planning of stops, booking of accommodations and moving of their luggage from Le Puy to Moissac.

We had an odd maitre de/ chef in this basically empty hotel but we welcomed luxury compared to night before. One of the ladies had gotten bronchitis shortly after arriving and so was taken the baggage service from place to place till she was well enough to walk.

Moss covered stone walls along track

Ute storage shed in the fields


Monday, September 23, 2013

September 17th Conques

What a lovely small walled city to explore on a day off! Our Chambre de hotes Casalou was at the bottom of a steep hill on the Chemin going out of town. We had a large attic room decorated for a child and had in addition to our large double bed, 2 bunk beds. We had our meal at the Cassalou the first night along with 4 other older French people who were walking and driving their car. After breakfast we walked up the steep cobbled pedestrian road 300 meters to the Abbey Church of Saint Foy at Conques.
Abbey Church Tympananum of the Last Judgement - 12th Century 

The abbey is UNESCO heritage site, as is the old bridge leading out of town and across the river Lot. We attended the mid day prayers and heard the beautiful organ. We walked though the town and had a picnic lunch of quiches and a delicious hazelnut cake. Most of the village is clearly geared towards tourists with many restaurants and souvenir and art shops. The weather was intermittent sunshine but proceeded to start raining again in the afternoon. We visited the different chapels of the abbey and the Tresor (treasure) room which included a relic of the skull of S. Foye.  She was a young girl from Agen, France who was to have performed many miracles related to eyes, but was martyred by orders of the Emperor Diocletion (we think) in 303 AD. Her skull is encased in gold and bejeweled. There are many other interesting religious relics from the Middle Ages that have been kept continously in this old abbey. The display was well laid out and we had received a brochure with all the item captions written in English which was very much appreciated.
Conques from outside one of the gates
We stopped by the Abbey Gite which is where close to 100 pelerins have been staying each night, mostly in dormitory accommodations. Our three dog friends were sitting at the door of the Gite looking exhausted, and the smallest one had her legs bandaged. As all the pelerin's meals are served at the Gite, in the evening many of the restaurants close down. On our second night in the town we had elected not to eat at our hotel and thus were surprized to find so few places open for dinner. After a nice meal we went to the Church along with all the other Pelerin for a concert of the organ. It was very nice but we were not expecting to hear "The House of the Rising Sun" played in such a venue!


Friday, September 20, 2013

Sept 18th 2013 Conques to Figeac

Sept.18 Conques by cab 30 km to Montredon (bypassing ugly industrial city Decazeville and missing a long walk along the road)  and walk about 20 km to Figeac which is a large town on the river Cele. This was previously an important stop on the Chemin de Compostella and there were six hospitals there. On our walk we passed the small Chappelle de Guirade and since the doors are open we go inside to see the alter. This Chapelle had some well preserved murals from the 14th century.

We had a delicious lunch of soup, herb omelet, fresh salad from the garden and home made yogurt and fruit in a small farm at the village of Bord! Some of our best meals have been in places like this. Even though the seating was outdoors we were protected from the rain that came while we ate. On walking out of the farm we were accompanied by the sweetest, energetic, labrador mixed dog that simply would not stop accompanying us. We would say "Allez a votra maison" to no effect. We would ask other walkers to assist us in sending the the dog back but they had no luck. Finally she left us in a village 3 km later (picture 284). We probably walked another couple of kilometers on the path and lo and behold saw our dog had reunited with its front yard! The owner and was getting ready to put him on a leash to be taken for a walk!
Our Camino Companion from lunch

 Figeac is a lovely old city even when you arrive in the pouring rain,as we did! It took us awhile to find our way through the old medieval parts of town to our very basic Gite. David was ready to walk out on seeing it was a very basic dormitory (Gite St. Joseph), and then stairs up where there was a large outdoor umbrella standing open to protect you from the rain as you moved to the next level in the house. After taking off our boots and stuffing them with newspapers and then putting them on the rack to join all the other wet boots, hanging our soaking jackets on the hooks with the wet ponchos and then our poles to join the others by the door and getting out the clothes and other items we would need for the evening and night and putting them in a bag provided by the Gite, we were then ready to store our backpacks on the shelves with all the other backpacks and find our room. This is the first time we had encountered such a procedure to help eliminate the passing of bed bugs.

When finally being shown to our room we found we had 5 twin beds in it, but we were assured that we would be the only ones sleeping there. The bathroom was around the corner throughout the owner's kitchen, and was shared with 3 other such similar rooms. Our room had been turned into a Chinese laundry with clothes hung to dry everywhere.  We had an excellent Internet connection and where able to talk to Jonathan and Kat as they are close to the same time zone. We also talked with David's mother as we had learned that her brother had passed away. It was a good time to have excellent internet! One of the differences we find along the Chemin in France and that in Spain is that in most places here you take demi-pension and you eat en famille with all the other pelerins, usually starting at the late hour of 7:30 and not ending until 9:30pm.  Conversation was mostly in French but as always and even in this humble git great effort went into the preparation and presentation of the meal. We ended up having a street light shining into the room all night as there were no curtains, obviously the two young women with this business were still working to bring the Gite up in standard. The next morning we ate the usual breakfast which has been put out and is self serve. The French must have their bread fresh daily and as the bakery does not open until 7am usually breakfast starts shortly thereafter. At breakfast you do not get a plate but rather a paper napkin and deep small bowl. The bowl is what we use as a mug and you put you cafe au lait, tea, or hot chocolate in it, but it is also perfect for dipping your fresh bread or croissant into. The napkin is your paper plate. Everyone cleans up after themselves in the morning - bowls and spoons into the sink and napkins in the trash bin. By 8:30am the place is empty and we are our way.

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Sept 15th and 16th Espalion to Conques




September 15 Espalion past Estaing to Golinac (about 28 km)

After breakfast we walked quickly over the thousand-year-old bridge and out of town along the Lot River. we saved ourselves some up and down by going along the road for about eight kilometers until we reached another very picturesque village, Estaing, which is dominated by a 900-year-old castle that was purchased in 2005 by former French President Valery Giscarde D'Estaing. His grandfather had purchased the aristocratic Estaing name, being only distantly related. After a heavy lunch, we walked along the river for about an hour before we stated to climb over a thousand feet to the top of the overlooking mountain. Unfortunately there was no coffee stop or even a bench on this track!  We finally straggled into the small hamlet of Golinac at almost 6 pm. Our pedometers registered over 40,000 steps for the first time, and about 230 flights of stairs of climbing, for a distance of 29 kilometers. We had a good dinner and enjoyed the heat in our camp-style cabin at Pole Touristique Bellvue. Dinner was down the road at the Auberge--Chambre d'hotels la Bastide D'Olt and was delicious and worth the extra steps to get there.

September 16 Golinhac to Conques (18 kilometers)

We had breakfast at 7:30 and were on the way by 8:20, pretty good for us. we covered the 8.5 km to Espeyrac very easily in the mist, but when we reached the next picturesque town of Senergues 3.5 km further, it had started to rain. We had lunch with our French friends and we all for shared a cab for the last 8 km down a steep road to Conques, where we said goodbye to Martine and Jean-Luc, who were retuning home the following day. We had reserved a room for two nights in a cute place just below the village. After another wonderful pilgrim meal with four courses, we crashed and looked forward to explore this famous pilgrim town next morning.



Doesn't the road to Golinhac end soon? It is after 6pm!

On the way to Golinhac

Chateau d'Estaing

Saturday, September 14, 2013

Arriving at St.-Come-d'Olt

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Sept 14th St. Chely-d'Aubrac through St. Come-d'Olt to Espalion

We did not have a restful nights sleep as we realized that we had not communicated with Malle de postal, the company moving our bags, as to the next destination, so we fretted most of the night about how to remedy the situation. Our French SFR phone has been unreliable to say the least, and when we tried to make a call or send a text message it said we had no money or credit on the phone. This meant we had to wait till the breakfast hour to address the situation. We asked the proprietress of the Hotel d'Chambre to call the company, but there was no answer as it is a weekend. So we marked the bags with today's hotel and left them out on the street in a very obvious place for the Malle Postale's van to see. We got a call on our defunked French phone from Jayo at Malle Postale. Someone had picked up the bags, but he wanted to be clear as to where the bags were to be taken and let us know we must call the night before to confirm the next destination. We apologized and gave him the information for our gite accomodations over the next few days. So glad he called!

From St Chely d'Aubrac it is straight out of  the village up a hill followed by fairly slow decent on the wide drove roads until 7 km, and then steep consecutive drops and climbing for 5 kilometers. David had put on his hiking boots today with full ankle support and was very happy. Leslie had boiled some eggs in another little gadget she is carrying and we were delighted to have them as a snack as we walked along.

Lunch was at the one and only place in the small town of Le Roziere, which we arrived at just before 2pm, so lunch was still being served. We met up with our friends Martine and Jean-Luc there. We had the most delicious thick crepe called Farcous with an amazing view while we cooled our feet. We walked the next 4 km to Saint Come-d'Olt easily as we were coming into the valley of the River Lot. The town of St. Come-d'Olt was charming and has some old pilgrim buildings that are over 1,000 years old, and a very unusual 16 th Century church with a twisted spire like the one in Chesterfield, England.

After buying some more credit for our French phone, we took a taxi with Jean-Luc and Martine about  five km to our hotel in Espalion.  We had covered about 17 km of what is considered the hardest part of the Camino, and Jean-Luc had developed bad blisters which could jeopardize the rest of his hike to Conques unless he took time to tend to them.

Friday, September 13, 2013

Friday sept 13th Nasbinals to Saint Chely-d'Aubrac

Our friends Martine and Jean Luc
We had a lovely walk today through the Aubrac plateau and down 400 meters at the end of the day in primarily over cast weather. We had an excellent breakfast of croissant, a fresh crepe, juice, coffee and yogurt before getting some cash from the bank-o-mat and heading out of town by 9:45. The bare landscape of open grassland dotted with bizarrely-shaped outcrops of basalt rock from yesterday was now softened with green carpeting along drailles or drove roads for cattle. We were also walking through the cow pastures and climbed about 200 meters to reach the lovely town of Aubrac right at lunch time.


The village of Domerie Aubrac has been a pelerin (pilgrim) hospital and place of rest since 1120 AD. The village was founded by Adelard de Flandres, the Flemish knight, who was attacked by bandits on his way to Santiago, and, in gratitude for surviving the attack, and the another near death experience in a storm on his return from the Camino, decided to found a hospital for pilgrims on the site. We ate lunch at restaurant Chez Germaine and had the most delicious cheese soup, salad and then an incredible berry tart!


 The restaurant was serving the area's specialty of aligot (mash potatoes and cheese but they pull it out of a big pot and cut it with scissors like taffy.) With full stomachs we wandered on down the trail for another 2 and a half hours to find our Gite  in St. Chely-d'Aubrac. We were fortunate enough to have our laundry washed and dried by the proprietress of our hotel. Our room has 2 twin beds, a sink, and a shower. The toilet is down the hall, which we find to be an interesting room configuration.

We were sad to learn today of the passing of David's Uncle Art Boynton. Uncle Art had just had a big party  a month ago for his 90th birthday. We called David's mother to express our condolences and then figure out how to send flowers for the service tomorrow.

Camino Monument near Aubrac - in silence and in solitude we contemplate what is important

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Happy to reach Nasbinals 27 Km from Aumont-Aubrac

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Cross on bridge

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Bridge on track to Nasbinals

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Thursday, September 12, 2013

Sept 11 & 12, 2013 to Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals

We keep on walking along passed by many but slow and steady we arrive at each destination. It is taking us between 6 and 8 hours a day to cover the distances we plan. The scenery that we walk through has changed daily from lush hay fields, green pastures and beautiful cows to barren rolling hills with big boulders. This region is an old volcanic region. The broad tracks are marked well and many have old stone crosses as well as more intricate metal ones. Each day we seem to be in packs of 30 pelerin walking within a few kilometers of us, with a few within sight.

Arriving in Aumont-Aubrac, Leslie almost burst into tears with what a lovely room we had in a very old house. The Maison was a combination of 2 houses, one from 1430 and the other 1700s. The proprietress Madame Cecile said that her family had owned the houses since 1780. Our bedroom was huge and had lovely wood carved room divider between the sitting area and the bedroom. The bathroom was lovely and had soft  comfy robes. Madam also washed and dried  all our laundry! This meant we could really just relax once we set up our own wi-Fi, connected to her internet, and we could post the blog. We had dinner with our walking companions Martine and Jean Luc at a local restaurant. We were served an outstanding meal which included steak and aligot. This Aubrac area is famous for its Aligot, which is a hearty mix of mashed potatoes and cheese. The food that we have had for  our set price dinners have been delicious, and have included the local meats, cheeses and wines. The day was to have been a "short" day of 12 km but turned out to be 17km and few places for a cafe or a snack.

Thursday from our lovely Maison we went by taxi with our friends 5km out of town to a small chapel, thereby avoiding a long detour to cross a highway leaving town, and started on the trail from there. Martine and Jean Luc have done this trail a few years ago and with the advent of the highway the Chemin now has a detour of over 3 km to go around the highway. As the day would have been 27km long, we decided to share the taxi with them and make it a 21km day. By 8:45 we were on the way. The weather was cold and blustery all day. We had put on zinc oxide as a sunscreen but mainly to prevent chapping from the cold wind. We had a lovely hot vegetable soup in Finieyrols along with a baguet sandwich with ham. We stopped for cafe au lait at Montgros, 2 km from our evening destination of Nasbinals. We arrived wearing our rain jackets as it was a cold, 55F. The trail today was exposed to the cold wind but beautiful. Many of the pelerin we met in Spain that had walked through France had said the scenery and food were better in France than in Spain.

The proprietress of our guest house creates perfumes using the local herbs which are known here in the Aubrac area. The plateau of Aubrac is home to more than 2,000 species of plants, including such herbs as thyme, sage, chamomile and mugwort. One of these, called calaman (also known as AubracTea) is much appreciated for its mint-like aroma. We booked the next two nights rooms in Saint-Chely d'Aubrac and then Espalion, and advised the baggage people of these plans. We tried to get the proprietress to book through Monday night for us but she had had enough dealing with the 2 nights for us. We are having dinner with our friends so we will ask them to help us.

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Arriving in Saugues @42 km from Le Puy

Looking back over the Monistrol d'Allier valley

Dogs with their gear ready to walk all the way to Santiago

Le Chemin de St. Jacques

Walking along Sept 8-10th Le Chemin de Saint-Jacques de Composelle

We left Bains, Sunday, a little after 8 am and walked to Monistol-d'Allier. Our hosts were up in the morning with the breakfast on the table. After breakfast we paid 75€ for our meals and room and they stamped our Credenteil. Our hike Sunday was about 22 kilometers with mostly down hills. It was also raining in the afternoon so the path became slippery. We were walking with a Canadian couple (65 and 70 yrs of age) and a young Chinese girl who was studying French in Lyon. There are very few cafe and lunch stops along this route. Also as the French eat between 12 and 2 pm if you are not at a location with a cafe in those times you are out of luck. We had read about packing a picnic but had not realized the importance of this yet.


We ate our granola bars from the breakfast in Le Puy and some cheese slices from the same place.  On arrival we were delighted to finally get out of the wet and cold a little after 4pm. The Gite where we were staying did not have the owner there so we just went and claimed a double room. There were 3 other Canadians, and a young Swiss girl who had left from Geneva a month ago. The proprietor arrived around 5pm to prepare our dinner which consisted of a lovely salad, sausages, boiled potatoes, carrots and local red wine. This Gite (simple guest house) had a place for washing clothes which we used.

As we learned was the norm, the proprietress would put out the makings for our breakfast or inform us as to where they were as breakfast was self-serve. Breakfast usually consisted of French bread, jam, juice, coffee/tea and if you were lucky some fresh yogurt for protein.   Our clothes were not dry in the morning so we packed them up and hoped to dry them later in the day at the next stop.

Monday had us walking to La Clauze with the most difficult part coming in the first few kilometers as it was basically straight up to get out of the valley. We were again walking with the same companions part of they way. We were seeing signs for a  mushroom omelette at a cafe up the path we we kept hoping we would make it there to enjoy one. We were all very happy to get there at 1:45pm so in time to have that delicious omelette. The mushrooms were grown in the area and the omelette was delicious as was the owners blueberry tart!

We then split from our companions as we needed to walk 7 km further and needed to pick up our pace. We finally struggled into La Clauze (almost 9 hrs on the path) and found our Gite- the only place in a very small hamlet. We pelerin ate together in front of a fire on a big long table. Sophie our proprietress  cooked a lovely zucchini soup, salad, ham, potatoes with cheese, a plate of cheeses she had made, plus creme brûlée for dessert. We were able to put our wet laundry near the fire overnight.

Tuesday morning we had a self serve breakfast which included yogurt. We also gave ourselves a protein shake for energy. Sophie had kindly helped us organize a room for the next night. We had wanted to walk only 20 km but were forced by lack of accommodation to go further to St-Alban-sur -Limagnole for a total distance of 24 km. we left our bags for La Malle Postale to pick up and move to the hotel Central in St. Albans. The country walk was beautiful over rolling hills, cow pastures, and wild flower fields. We had been thinking to take a short cut as some French pelerin had told us about that they were going to take but unfortunately we missed it so it became a very long day and Leslie finally insisted to stop and call a taxi if there was to be any ability to walk the next day (sore hip, shin splits and foot ailments).  Our French SIM card which had been working but now for some inexplicable reason was not, which caused more consternation. however we asked for help at the Gite we had wanted to stay in but they were full. One kind man from Marseille offered to give us a ride the last 3 km to the village. We were so grateful! We had done over 8 1/2 hrs of walking. Dinner at the hotel was with a group of French hikers that live in the south of France and a Swiss fellow Conrad who had walked from his house near Geneva. He was going on to Santiago. The hotel lady here has booked our rooms for tomorrow night and the night thereafter so we can rest now with that concern done.

Wednesday morning we took some extra time to write the blog, do emails and rest. We are doing only 12 km today according to the guides. It is very strange but various hikers that we have met have been complaining about the fact the distances in the guide book are not correct and that someone must have driven on a road and put in the distances based on that drive - no one has found the distance to be shorter than in the guide book and most have found them to be a couple of km more.  This has been the case with us and our FitBits! The FitBits also show calories burned, usually 2,500, and number of stairs climbed.

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Le Puy to Baines in Haute Loire

We left Le Puy by 9 AM. Our backpacks had been picked up at 8:45 am so we were literally dashing out of the hotel following our bags. We had a little difficultly getting out of town as we could not find the traditional Camino shell or GR65 white and red markings on the road or buildings.

We walked about 15 km from Le Puy to Bains. Bains Is not directly on the Chemin de St. Jacques but was necessary because there were no rooms available within a reasonable distance. The weather forecast was rain and thunderstorms for the whole day. We carried the appropriate raingear and were fortunate that it was not needed as the rain started after we arrived at Bain's we climbed over 500 m in today's hike.

We had a lovely communal meal with 14 other pelerins that had been caught in the rain and had found no place to stay on the trail. Our inn keeper Daniel had gone to pick them up and drove them to Bains.


Sent from my iPhone

Saturday, September 7, 2013

September 2013 DC to Paris and on to Le Puy-en-Velay for the Via Podiensis

Cathedral Le Puy
St Jaques
September 2013 DC to Paris and on to Le Puy-en-Velay for the Via Podiensis
Sept.4 -6th
Our overnight United flight from Washington Dulles to Paris was smooth and we were fortunate to have any empty seat between us on this night flight to spread out a little more. On arrival in Paris we collected our luggage and then found a taxi to take us to a friend of ours daughter's house where we were dropping off some gifts for their grandchildren. We had been told that the taxis took credit cards, so we did not change the US dollars we were carrying with us as the rates seemed very poor. The taxi we found did not,however, take credit cards, but he stopped at an ATM to let us get some euros so we could pay him.

When we arrived at apartment, although we had been sending text messages and left a voice mail, we were not able to connect with anyone at the home. So we stood outside for awhile until someone came out and then we explained what we wanted - this got us in past the first door. Once again blocked by another door we looked at all the apartment buttons and called our friends daughter's place, but no answer. It was of course peak time to be taking children to school. We then pushed a neighbor's intercom button and explained what we wanted and she let us in. We forgot to ask though what apartment number we needed to go to, but again luck prevailed and the maid of the apartment was the next person we spoke too- so the suitcase was left as a wonderful surprise for grandchildren and we departed for the train station.

In our tiredness we went to the wrong train station (Nord instead of Lyon), but we were stil able to buy the train ticket for later that afternoon all the way to Le Puy-en-Velay. We did have a moment of frustration, could almost have been back in Thailand, as we had to repeat our final destination at least three times before the ticket master understood our destination. When he finally understood and repeated our destination Le Puy-en-Valey, it sounded to us just like the way we had each been saying it!

We bought first class tickets (300 euros for 2) because we wanted to be sure and have air conditioning and good comfortable seats for napping. We struggled to understand the metro after the taxis outside Gare Nord requested 50 euros to go to the other station. The price came down to 30 euros, but we were annoyed, so traveled instead by metro for 3 euros for the two of us.

With one 5 minute train change we arrived in Le Puy a little after 5pm and walked to the tourist office to find accommodation (up hill with packs) and ended up at the Ibis Stylus hotel (118 euros a night) where we arranged to stay for 2 nights. We had dinner out on one of the very pleasant old squares and were in bed by 8 pm, worn out be our overnight flight and language challenges.

Friday morning we were up breakfasted and at the Cathedral for special pilgrim mass at 7 am. The Bishop of Le Puy also does a pelerin prayer after mass and gave us a small medal to carry. The cathedral has a black Virgin Mary statue, we think this is very unusual in Europe, we photographed that statue and also the statue of St Jacques the Pilgrim, who is known as St. James in English and Santiago in Spanish. The Bishop took the usual role call of where the pelerin, about 150, came from and we were amazed at the number of Americans. Large group from West Virginia, a couple from New York, Nebraska, Kansas and Florida. Majority of the pelerins were white hairs, expected at this time of year, and looked as out of shape as we look - not expected.

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

14th - 16th April 2013 Kazaringa to Guwahati to Kolkata to Chiang Mai

No I don't want to go with you
After the elephant ride, we breakfasted at our hotel before embarking on the road to Assam's capital city, Guwahati, which we reached on a relatively good road by early afternoon.  Today was the Cow Washing day for the start of the Bihu Celebrations and all cows were to be washed today with special care and perfumed waters in the ponds and rivers.  There were no cows roaming free as they were either being bathed or tied up so they would get dry and remain clean. Cows are scared animals in Assam as in the rest of India.


We settled into our proper 3-star Landmark Hotel, which had AC, hot water in sink and shower, television, and most important, WiFi internet.  We were able to use the internet to contact relatives and let them know we were OK and near the end of our NE India excursion. Around 4pm we went down to the Fabindia shop which Leslie's quilting friend had told her about. From there we went to the Fancy Bazaar where Leslie enjoyed looking at all the textiles and buying 1/4 meters of various printed cottons.  Explanations always had to been given as to why someone would only be buying such small pieces of fabric, since they were too small for even a scarf.

Muga silk sarees on the women and Muga silk shirts on men
Today was the Assamese Bihu celebration, equivalent to our New Year although it is timed for the beginning of rain and consequent planting season for rice, so traffic was light as many of the city's inhabitants had gone back to their villages to be with parents. We found a men's association that was holding a Bihu dance performance and contest that evening just a few blocks from our hotel, and when we went in to buy tickets, they took us to the front where the organizers welcomed us and insisted that we sit in the padded couches in the front row reserved for VIPs. They served us tea, snacks, and each dignitary came over and asked who we were and what we were doing in their town, and seemed to be very pleased to be able to host foreigners. This is because we were ourselves the center of attention in the Northeast, with many locals photographing us with their cell phones, just as we liked to take pictures of the more picturesque among them. There were no other Western tourists to be seen in the city, even during their most important annual celebration.
David had the hard part of pronouncing the Association's name!

The master of ceremonies asked if we would say a few words for the audience after he introduced us on stage, and we agreed.  They gave us honorary plaques and traditional gamosa's (scarves - rectangular white woven cotton with red borders of which the two ends have a thick border in red with different patterns woven in, such as the special rice hats etc.), with camera and TV footage. We also were photographed with the male and female dancers, who were very good, exuding energy and good will, in several dances unlike anything we had seen elsewhere, whether in India or Southeast Asia. Their dancing is unique in our opinion. The dances were sensuous and gave the sense of encouraging  fertility. After our speeches praising their performance, we left during an intermission, as it was late and we had not had dinner, making our excuses to our very hospitable hosts.
Wearing our Gamosa scarves that were presented to us

Next day the museum was closed, but Leslie was highly successful in finding unique bits soft cotton and special silk cloth, first from a fabric shop, and next, at our guide's suggestion, from the remnants that different tailor shops kept in large bags.  Can't believe she was routing through the scrap bags of the tailors thoroughly enjoying herself. The silk that the Assamese prize for their traditional wear and also for the clothing for the festival is called Muga silk. Assam has received the geographical indication tag for being the sole producer of that silk,which is famous for its natural golden color and can not be bleached or dyed because it is not porous enough to absorb the die. There are two other silks that come from Assam, and sericulture (the raising of silk worms for the production of silk) is popular. While we did not see the process in Assam, in speaking with our driver and the young woman at the weaving center yesterday, it is very similar to the process we saw in Luang Namtha, Laos.
Hens? Roosters?


Returning to our hotel, we packed our stuff away for air travel, went to the airport at Guwahati for our one-hour Jet Airways flight to Kolkata (old Calcutta), then our 5-hour wait in the international departure area, then a 2-hour flight to Bangkok.  Guwahati airport security gave Leslie a hard time for all the electronics she was carrying in her backpack, and put everything through individually (chargers, car charging device for any sort of electronics, wireless router, computer, three cell phones etc.) David also had his own issues as security would not believe he had metal hips and demanded to see the scars! That was a first for him, but we had always joked that somewhere in our travels that was going to happen.

We managed to get a bit of sleep before our hour flight back to Chiang Mai, which seemed so welcoming with a quiet airport, polite air-conditioned taxi driver, regular electricity and internet. We were happy to be home in our little apartment after two months on the road.

Final thoughts on Nagaland


If you were coming to Nagaland to see traditional tribe cultures don’t bother to come as there is nothing left. With 98% of the community Baptist the locals all were western clothes and there is nothing much really to see culturally. 

Both Nagaland and Arunachal are recognized as having diverse biospheres which lead to a very high bird and butterfly count not to mention the fauna.  For us the question in Nagaland was why had there been such a high conversion rate to Christianity? We had not seen the missionary be so successful at conversion in the various countries that we have been to where missionaries have been active.

A Doctoral thesis by Vihuli Sema entitled The American Baptist Mission and the Nagas for which there is an abstract available on line has these remarks on that same subject.

“Chapter four is an elaborate discussion of the missionary contribution in the field of education, literature and health care. No doubt these were some of the methods adopted to achieve their one object, the conversion of the Nagas to Christianity, but the missionary contribution in these fields cannot be underestimated. They were the pioneers in the field of education and contributed immensely to its growth and development in the Naga Hills. Spread of secular education as desired by the administration was not the primary object of the American Baptists. They wanted a workable literacy among the hill men and with this end in view the missionaries established primary schools and a few training schools for teachers. Despite such limitations, the mission schools remained the chief agencies for imparting education to the Nagas. The missionaries also contributed immensely to the development of Naga literature. In fact most of the written Naga dialects owe their origin and development to the Christian agencies. Eager to get vernacular translations of the New Testament into circulation as quickly as possible, the missionaries at Impur and Kohima reduced the various Naga dialects to written forms and built up a body of vernacular literature which represented the first literature the Naga had ever possessed.

 Another sphere of missionary’s activity brought hope and new life to the Nagas hitherto steeped in superstitions and ignorance, and that was medical service. This appeared to be one of the important adjuncts to the evangelistic programs of the missionaries from the beginning. It was seen as the necessary embodiment of the spirit of Christianity, whose founder was Himself a great Healer. The missionaries established hospitals, dispensaries, and other kinds

of health centuries . Through the dispensaries the mission could serve the Nagas even in the remotest areas. The service of Rivenburg, Loops, and Bailey as well as the nonprofessional contributions made by Clark and others dispensed medicine for ordinary ailments did help to project the figure of a compassionate missionary "who became more acceptable to the people. It also contributed a great deal to the material progress of the Naga Hills.

Chapter five deals with conversion and attempts to explain it in the historical context. Clearly it can be seen that Christian conversion among the Nagas cannot be explained in terms of the number of distribution of foreign missionaries, as this line of reasoning is contradicted by the lack of consistent correlation between the incidence of conversion and the presence of foreign missionaries. Shifting the focus from the missionaries to the converts, one might interpret the latter as motivated by political, social, or other forms of self-interest. But this confuses the consequence of conversion for its cause. Religious change in Nagaland in other words, cannot be explained in strictly non-religious terms. The key of these changes is to be found in the particular forms of interaction between the Naga religious cosmology and their social relations, each of which influenced the other. The traditional Naga cosmology may be characterized as a two-tiered scheme, consisting at the upper tier of a supreme deity who underpinned the universe. This supreme deity though benevolent was but vaguely understood and seldom approached because of his remoteness from the everyday concerns of Naga communities. The lower tier consisted of a host of minor spirits who were more sharply perceived because they underpinned the immediate reality which Nagas experienced , and therefore needed constant appeasement to keep them from bringing havoc upon individuals, or whole villages . Within this framework on finds a good deal of room for variation and elaboration from one Naga group to another. Secondly Naga religions were not static but dynamic, as we find that particular deities of one Naga group were occasionally incorporated into the cosmology of other groups. An awareness of the variations among Naga religion and of their dynamic fluid quality helps to suggest how Christian conversion took place in the Naga Hills. In using this approach one finds that in fact Christianity was not presented uniformly among Naga groups, that the Christian cosmology was fitted into the Ao religious system very differently then it was into the Sema, Lotha or Angami system. Secondly one finds that the various Naga communities experienced different sorts of social changes before and during their exposure t o Christian influence, and that this affected their different responses to that influence.

Despite all their denunciation against the social dimension of Naga religion, prohibiting this, denying that, some missionaries were not at all reluctant to rely very heavily on its cosmological dimension. Thus we see them tinkering with Naga cosmologies, trying to fit their own system into the Nagas, but doing so in a somewhat inconsistent way. In the long run it appears that those missionaries who found the most success were those who allowed the Nagas to identify the Christian conception of God within their own religious system.  However as long as the Nagas experience of reality remained confined to their immediate locality, the upper tier of their cosmology occupied by their supreme deity who underpinned the entire universe, was accordingly given only slight attention . This was why the early missionary efforts met with relatively little success. The missionaries had been elaborating the upper tier of the Naga cosmology at a time when the Nagas pre-occupied with a concern with more immediate spirits were paying little attention to that tier. But world events like the integration of the Naga Hills with British India and World War II confronted Nagas with a larger reality than their lower tier of local spirits could be seen as controlling. When this occurred, Nagas respond d by paying greater attention to the supreme deity who underpinned the entire universe and who appeared more clearly in charge of things. Amidst this breakdown and ultimately capitalizing on it , were the missionaries who claimed to be tapping a source of power the one God ’Tsungrem ' or ‘ Alhon' , far greater in magnitude and far more actively involved with the entire macrocosm than any of the former spirits of Naga cosmology. The acceptance of this Christian conception of God seem to have been facilitated by (a) his ability to deliver men from fear of their malevolent spirits (b) his identification with new solutions to old problems in the area of physical afflictions, and ( c) His infinite power rendered both timeless and challengeable by his being enshrined in a written text, the Christian scriptures.

Chapter Six deals with the impact of Christianity on Naga culture. Culture here implies the personality of a people or a society. It includes the totality of people’s traditions (what they believe) attitudes (what they desire) customs (what they do) and institutions (how they live). Christianity has struck its roots deep in the Naga soil and brought far reaching changes in every facet of Naga life and thought. For centuries the Nagas had been living in isolation, institutionalized warfare between neighboring villages and tribes had been a way of life, the mainspring of many of the political, social and cultural institutions of the people. Now the Christian emphasis upon love for neighbour and enemy alike provided an ideological basis for the new relationship among villages and tribes that British administration and the prohibition of raiding made necessary.  The new attitudes were seen in the extensive evangelistic activities undertaken by Christians of one tribe among members of other tribes who had traditionally been their enemies.  Another area of culture change stimulated by missionary influence was tile breaking of old barriers within and between linguistic groups. The Mission organized large associations to serve as forums for discussion on social welfare activities as well as church policy. But these Associations also served to integrate Nagas of the same language groups. With their huge annual meetings drawing thousands from distant villages, these Associations not only broke down inter village barriers but raised to a much higher level the forum of discussion on issues formerly decided only at the village level. For the Nagas Christianity came as a liberator from ”spiritual and social demons' . But in the process of 1iberatinq the tribes it is not always easy to tell the difference between the "demons" of oppression and superstition that binds the bodies and mind of the people and valuable elements in the traditional cultures that might best be preserved to enrich the Christian community. Sometimes the missionaries seemed to oppose traditional activity simply because they did not fit in with their own rather solemn notions of Christian propriety. For instance, the missionaries forbade converts to participate in the Feast of Merit, and boys were prohibited from attending their morungs or dormitories since these were associated with their former life. The Feast of Merit discouraged by the missionaries fulfilled an important obligation of the well-to-do for the good of the community irrespective of their economic positions. This said to be the Naga way of distributing Wealth which had a greater social value. Again the morungs around which the social, political, religious, legal and military life of the Nagas revolved sank into insignificance due to missionary propaganda. Morungs were supposed to be the “most imposing and well built” houses in the Naga villages. They were also the centers of art and carving. Mills lamented that in the Christian villages Morungs were no longer built and the old xylophones (long wooden drums) came into disuse. The disappearance of the social and communal institution was followed in it’s train by the emergence of a spirit of new individualism. This in turn led to the erosion of the family and clannish ties which were once very important elements of Naga life. Education, occupational mobility and social intercourse also led to inter tribal marriages.  Marriages with non-Nagas also took place. Such inter-marriages have eroded family and community life to a great extent. The convert being thus cut off from the community and village life became a stranger in his village and began to despise his own tribe and cultural inheritance. Many of the charges against the missionaries of disrupting the Naga way of life are not without foundation. However the latter-day missionaries appreciating some of the valuable elements in the Naga culture switched on to a more realistic policy and tried t o preserve all t that was good in the old tradition and culture of the Naqas.

In conclusion it may be said that the American Baptist Mission came out of European and American cultural backgrounds. When they entered the Naga Hills and began working among them, two cultures came face to face. The when two cultural groups meet they effect each other. Usually the dynamic one makes its headway inside the weaker.  On principle a certain amount of tribal disintegration was unavoidable when it came in direct touch with the agent of western culture. It can be admitted frankly that the missionaries that came from America were the bears of both the good and the bad qualities of their nation.  They could not strip themselves of the cultural characteristics of their land and people and this influenced to some extent their attitude toward the tribal culture. But the allegation that Christianity was responsible for the disintegration of the Naga culture and life are interconnected the more so in tribal life, where they tend to be undifferentiated.  The missionaries made an attempt to change the core, the center of tribal religion, but they had attempted to retain the outer framework as much as possible. But a change of center meant a change of world view, philosophy of life and perspective of spiritual and moral values. Thus some kind of change or alteration was inevitable."

 

Monday, April 15, 2013

Video Rongali Bihu Men's second dance

We enjoyed the rhythm and energy in these dances



Sunday, April 14, 2013

Video Rongali Bihu Men's third dance with brass cymbals

This is another traditional Assamese folk dance by the men - wearing traditional clothes for this dance. Very smooth and graceful execution of the movements

Video Rongali Bihu Women's dance

Beautiful Muga silk sarees. This special gold colored silk is only produced here in Assam.

Video Rongali Bihu Men's first Dance

We had a fabulous time as the accidental tourist that becomes the VIP guests at the Ulubari Sanmilon's (Men's association close by our hotel) Bihu celebration.


Saturday, April 13, 2013

13th April 2013 Kazaringa Nature Reserve by jeep safari

After an early breakfast, at 7:15AM we met our bird/animal guide for the park, Somnath Borah, and got into our jeep, which had space for four in bench seats in the back. We filled this space up since we let our driver Bishal join us, as he was such an enthusiastic birder. It had started to rain so they put up a canvas top as we drove to the park entrance for the central area of the Park, but luckily it stopped once we started into the park, so we removed the canvas and stood up as we drove along.
Our Jeep with us and Birding guide

We immediately saw two Crested Serpent Eagles perched in trees just above the road, and the day went very well for bird-watching.  At the bottom of this posting is a listing of over 70 different species seen, which excludes those we could not reasonably identify or considered insignificant, like sparrows.

The Park is most famous for having the world's biggest concentration of Indian Rhinos, over 2,000 of them, and we saw a number without really trying.  We also saw deer, wild buffalo, wild boar, mongoose, and a 10-foot King Cobra that was sunning itself beside the road.
King Cobra

We left the center part of the Park before noon, visited an ATM that was empty and a weaving school and shop that was very good, had quick set-menu lunch at the hotel, and set off again in our jeep for a tour of the western part of the Park.  

The weaving school was for training local women in weaving with a jacquard card reader so that their hand woven cloth would be faster. The proprietor of Village Weaves asked Leslie if she would like to try her hand at the table cloth fabric that was being woven and she was delighted to try. 
A weaving discussion


Here we added about another twenty or thirty bird species, the additions coming more slowly because it was later in the day and also because we had seen most of the more common species. We left the park at sunset as we had a two-hour limit that we probably went over.
Indian (one-horned) Rhino

We had organized a trip on elephant in the central part of the park for 5AM next morning, so we rose early and got dressed in minimal light because the electricity was off. Meeting our guides at 4:30 AM, we were the first in line and got the first elephant, a large male 15-year-old with tusks, getting on to our seats from a raised platform.  About 8 other elephants loaded after us, some including whole families of Indian tourists, but luckily they were quiet except for one crying child.

Crested Serpent Eagle

Just before we mounted, a disturbance occurred in which three local dogs ran into the park to chase a baby sambar (large deer) which was near to their homes. Shouting guards did not deter them, and one ran off after them with a 12 gauge shotgun.  We watched the mother try to keep the dogs at bay, chasing one at a time, but her faun became separated, and then we heard a shot which almost stampeded the elephants. Only two dogs came back, but the faun never made it back to its mother, which stayed in the area for more than an hour calling for it. We surmise that the dog got the faun and was shot for his infraction of park rules.




Baby rhino nursing

The elephant ride was interesting as we were off the road and could get very close to the rhinos, sambar, hog deer, and one wild elephant, without causing them too much concern. By 6AM we were being unloaded onto another platform a couple of miles away, and this was a relief for David as his hips were not used to this stretching.  Altogether, the Park was a nice way to spend a day after all the time travelling from town to town.





Bird List from the Park

1. Bengal Bushlark
2. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker
3. Lineated Barbet
4. Red-breasted Parakeet
5. Red-headed Vulture
6. Red Collared Dove
7. Changeable Hawk Eagle
8. Common Woodshrike
9. White-throated Kingfisher
10. Grey-headed Fish Eagle
11. Purple Heron
12. European Turtle Dove
13. White-tailed Stonechat
14. River Tern
15. Pallas's Fish Eagle
Comments : saw several including one with a nest
16. Cinereous Vulture
17. Black-necked Stork
18. Greater Painted-snipe
19. Little Cormorant
20. Common Redshank
21. Common Greenshank
22. Common Sandpiper
23. Swamp Francolin
24. Rock Pigeon (Common Pigeon)
25. Ruby-cheeked Sunbird
26. Bar-headed Goose
Comments : migratory
27. Mallard
28. Spot-billed Duck (Indian Spot-billed Duck)
29. Asian Koel
30. Lesser Adjutant
31. Greater Adjutant
32. Saker Falcon
33. Oriental Magpie Robin
34. Common Hoopoe
35. Paddyfield Pipit
36. Spangled Drongo (Hair-crested Drongo)
37. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
38. Black-headed Ibis
39. Jungle Myna
40. Common Myna
41. Alexandrine Parakeet
Comments : at sun down large groups coming to eat fresh grass stalks near the lake. land like a helicopter.
42. Grey-backed Shrike
43. White Wagtail
44. Yellow Wagtail (Western Yellow Wagtail)
45. Kalij Pheasant
46. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
47. Coppersmith Barbet
48. Rufous Treepie
49. Chestnut-tailed Starling
50. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon
51. Red-wattled Lapwing
52. Barn Swallow
53. Woolly-necked Stork
54. Grey Heron
55. Spot-billed Pelican
56. Black Drongo
57. Large-billed Crow
58. Indian Roller
59. Bronze-winged Jacana
60. Slender-billed Vulture
61. Green Imperial Pigeon
62. White-breasted Waterhen
63. Spotted Dove
64. Stork-billed Kingfisher
65. Pied Kingfisher
66. Intermediate Egret (Yellow-billed Egret)
67. Little Egret
68. Asian Openbill
69. Rose-ringed Parakeet
Comments : lovely group at dusk eating grass shoots with alexandrite parakeets
70. Red Junglefowl
71. Crested Serpent Eagle
72. Asian Pied Starling (Pied Myna)
73. Spotted Owlet
74. Asian Barred Owlet
75. Greater Coucal