Spiritual
I think we both found that the early parts of the French way seemed to have more "soul" in that the people were friendlier and would call out "Buen Camino" or honk their horns as they passed nearby. Also the churches in the small towns held a Perigrino Mass in the evening with usually a special blessing afterwards. In the last 100 KM we could not really go to mass as we were staying in smaller towns that did not do an evening service. Perhaps it was the end of the pilgrimage season. Perigrinos shared the reasons they were on the Camino so there was discussion when one finally reached Santiago whether one had received the spiritual or other gifts one was looking for. Some felt that just by having done the Way had given them the time off their normal schedules to have regained some energy.
I did the Camino for a number of reasons; one being the actual physical test; the other being the time to think about life's current challenges at this stage in our lives - elderly parents, friends coping with life threatening illnesses, and to search for better understanding and patience with the elderly. Everyday a Rosary was prayed along with way - along with chants of "Go Forward" (for Athena from Chris Reeves Foundation). While I had hoped to achieve a certain calmer stance towards a particular environment, I have to say that I did not really achieve that goal, however, now I do walk away from that needling environment and let others be in control of it.
Did we become physically fit and lose weight? Yes we did! You could not eat enough for all the calories you were burning. Dinner times were leisurely to some degree, and we generally ate everything that the pilgrim's menu put in front of us! This also included at least one bottle of local house wine, and sometimes two between us.
I would love to do some other sections of the Camino as it was very challenging but also spiritually, emotionally and physically a wonderful experience and not something to forget. Best of all I was lucky enough to have done it with my soul mate who knew that the Camino was important to me and pushed me along when I needed encouragement and prodding.
Practical
The packing list - a wonderful place to start, but really weigh every thing and then try and remove a pound or two as you will feel those pounds all along the way.
CAMINO PACKING LIST
Full pack plus water and food should not exceed 10% of your body weight. – max 20 lbs
Everything is stored in plastic bags, essential as it can rain a lot.
CLOTHING /EQUIPMENT
2 pair pants – 2 pr zip off shorts (1 pr used as sleeping gear)
2 long sleeve T-shirt
1 short sleeve T-shirt
3 pair thick socks
4 pair sock liners or thin socks
3 panties/underpants
2 bras
1 fleece jacket
Bandanna- for various uses
Bandanna – cooling gel
Rain jacket - gortex
Backpack rain cover
Sandals
Sleep sheet
Collapsible titanium walking poles
Hiking boots (gel inserts/orthotics)
Extra pair shoe laces
Sun hat - Tilley
Travel towel- medium sized
Water bottle
Heart monitor
ELECTRONICS
Camera charger
Blackberry charger
Flash drive UBS (for putting camera pictures on)
Camera to computer cord
Vonage flashdrive for calling USA
Electrical plug adapter
MPG Flash drive with Spanish language lessons
TOILETRIES
Foot care
Needle & cotton thread for blisters
Corn Huskers for feet
Foot Powder
New Skin liquid bandage
Moleskin
Band-Aids
Nail clipper
Daily care
Hair Brush
Deodorant
Emery board
Moisturizer
Nailbrush – for washing clothes and cleaning boots
Campsuds – for shampoo/ soap and laundry detergent
Sunscreen (SPF 30)
Toothbrush, toothpaste, dental floss
Prescription medications/vitamins
Ear plugs
Advil PM
Sweetener
Useful or emergency care
Diaper pins for clothes line on back pack
Flashlight (LED-type)
Ziploc-type bags, various sizes
Antibiotic/Z pack
Insect repellent
Antibiotic cream plus betadine solution for threading blisters
Compass
Plastic case on lanyard for putting map in
Guidebooks and notes
Knife with sheath for cutting bread, cheese, fruits
Small light weight flexible cutting “board”
Metal “ball” for mixing up protein drink in water container
Swiss army knife
Plastic spoons
Gum
Hand Sanitizer/ moisture towelettes
WAIST BELT PACK, WORN IN FRONT W/ VALUABLES: NEVER LEAVE IT!
Blackberry
Passports
Driver’s license (you never know!)
Air and train tickets, hotel confirmations
Pilgrim passport (Your most valuable possession!)
Pen/pencil
Small diary
ATM/Debit card for cash
Credit card
Euro Passport card for obtaining cash if ATM card doesn't work
Sunglasses/reading glasses
Camera
Cash
Lip balm/gloss
Wear your boots on the plane. If baggage is lost, you can buy everything else in Europe, but the boots should be broken in to your feet. Don’t lose them!
To travel overseas, put your backpack in a suitcase. (We left the empty suitcase with our hotel in Bilboa as we would be flying back to the USA from there.) Before hitting the trail, go to the post office (correos) in Spain and buy boxes there to send-ahead different items that you consider necessary but are heavy (protein powder, GORP, more sweetener, sun screen etc) so that thay are impractical to carry the whole way. Mail a final package to yourself “lista de correos” in Santiago with make-up and some other clothes. Mail other smaller care packages to other correos along the trail. We made 5 postal stops, picking up and using all the protein powder and the GORP, did not use all the razors, sunscreens, first aid supplies. Moleskin is a must to carry as it was not available. The European version, Compede was a mess and ruined your socks with sticky goo. Voltarene, which reduces inflammation is very reasonably priced and does not require a prescription like in the USA. The Protein Powder was the most valuable item because you did not have access to a good protein source first thing in the morning. You could have gotten something similar to GORP along the way; however, not with the edamame.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Santiago de Compostela
We had an unbelievably special pilgrim mass at noon today at the Cathedral. We were in the Cathedral before 11 am as I had wanted to complete a few of the pilgrim rituals before mass but the place was so crowded that we decided to just grab a seat in one of the first few pews and wait for mass to start at noon. It was wonderful to sit there and enjoy the church and the greeting and congratulating among perigrinos. I had all of my various mementos with me for this special mass and had time to say a rosary while we waited. Then a nun came out and tried to train the attendees as to how the songs were going to be sung. When mass started 3 priests came in and the organ started playing just above us and everyone singing - gave me goose bumps. One of the priests announced the the number and nationality of the perigrinos who had arrived in Santiago and received their Compostelas yesterday. We heard him say ¨dos perigrinos estatus unidos¨ which we believe was us.
The ritual for perigrinos over the centuries is to enter the cathedral up the steps to the elaborately sculptured doorway called the Portico de la Gloria (Door of Glory). Pilgrims used to place their hands on the Tree of Jesse, the center column under the statue of St. James. As so many hands have touched the stone pillar it has worn down and now there is a barrier so you can not reach it. The point of this symbolic touch was to reaffirm your belief in the Christian faith. The whole door way was covered with scaffolding and plastic so we had a hard time deciphering the biblical stories depicted but St. James was uncovered and very easy to see clearly.
The next ritual is to embrace the statue of St. James that presides at the main alter, this being the manifestation of your commitment to visit the tomb of St. James through walking the Camino and also to be more open to the Christian message he brought us. You climb up a small narrow passage and are behind the alter and from directly behind the statue you touch the statue and then go down the stairs on the other side.
Near that exit area is another small set of stairs down to the crypt under the alter where St. James relics lie in a silver urn, along with relics of two of his followers.
We had noted that during mass perigrinos could continue their embrace of the statue and also visiting the crypt so we decided that after receiving communion we would go and do the rest of the perigrino rituals. So we did these last two steps with the organ playing and everyone singing. We exited from the crypt just at the front where now the incense burner,the botafumeiro, was being lowered so it could be lit and swung sending the smell of incense through out the church. It took six men to hold the ropes and did they send that incense burner soaring up, swinging over both naves on the sides of the main alter. We had heard that since Saturday the incense device had been broken, so we were not sure if we would be fortunate enough to see this ritual performed. In the old days it was thought to help cleanse the dirty and disease ridden perigrinos. Question: Will the smoke kill bed bugs?
We did not see the rest of the cathedral nor light any candles today, so we will come back again for the perigrino mass tomorrow, but will let others have a seat up front.
It has rained off and on today so when the sun is out we take pictures and otherwise are in our rain gear. The information office told us where there was a laundromat so we have taken all the clothes we can there to be cleaned and are now at an internet cafe doing today and yesterday´s blog as we got behind.
Santiago´s old quarters are really lovely and as it rains so much here, the old streets have little porticos so people still sit outside to people watch. There is a real upscale cafe bar that we hung out in yesterday with other perigrinos and we will go back there after the laundry is done and before we meet our Canadian friends who should have walked in today. Our hotel is the Convento de San Francisco which is near the Cathedral and has some character. We booked it online for a rate of 107 euros per night and we have the room until the morning of Oct 9th when we get our rental car. Santiago has a university with it´s campus right in the old town so of course in addition to all the perigrino activity you have all the students as well, so there is an active tapas bar street Rua Franco that we visited for dinner last night. We will enjoy that area more over the next few nights as we get more energy. We both bought big thick paperback novels at the book store and plan to put our feet up at the various cafes and just read and watch the world go bye.
The ritual for perigrinos over the centuries is to enter the cathedral up the steps to the elaborately sculptured doorway called the Portico de la Gloria (Door of Glory). Pilgrims used to place their hands on the Tree of Jesse, the center column under the statue of St. James. As so many hands have touched the stone pillar it has worn down and now there is a barrier so you can not reach it. The point of this symbolic touch was to reaffirm your belief in the Christian faith. The whole door way was covered with scaffolding and plastic so we had a hard time deciphering the biblical stories depicted but St. James was uncovered and very easy to see clearly.
The next ritual is to embrace the statue of St. James that presides at the main alter, this being the manifestation of your commitment to visit the tomb of St. James through walking the Camino and also to be more open to the Christian message he brought us. You climb up a small narrow passage and are behind the alter and from directly behind the statue you touch the statue and then go down the stairs on the other side.
Near that exit area is another small set of stairs down to the crypt under the alter where St. James relics lie in a silver urn, along with relics of two of his followers.
We had noted that during mass perigrinos could continue their embrace of the statue and also visiting the crypt so we decided that after receiving communion we would go and do the rest of the perigrino rituals. So we did these last two steps with the organ playing and everyone singing. We exited from the crypt just at the front where now the incense burner,the botafumeiro, was being lowered so it could be lit and swung sending the smell of incense through out the church. It took six men to hold the ropes and did they send that incense burner soaring up, swinging over both naves on the sides of the main alter. We had heard that since Saturday the incense device had been broken, so we were not sure if we would be fortunate enough to see this ritual performed. In the old days it was thought to help cleanse the dirty and disease ridden perigrinos. Question: Will the smoke kill bed bugs?
We did not see the rest of the cathedral nor light any candles today, so we will come back again for the perigrino mass tomorrow, but will let others have a seat up front.
It has rained off and on today so when the sun is out we take pictures and otherwise are in our rain gear. The information office told us where there was a laundromat so we have taken all the clothes we can there to be cleaned and are now at an internet cafe doing today and yesterday´s blog as we got behind.
Santiago´s old quarters are really lovely and as it rains so much here, the old streets have little porticos so people still sit outside to people watch. There is a real upscale cafe bar that we hung out in yesterday with other perigrinos and we will go back there after the laundry is done and before we meet our Canadian friends who should have walked in today. Our hotel is the Convento de San Francisco which is near the Cathedral and has some character. We booked it online for a rate of 107 euros per night and we have the room until the morning of Oct 9th when we get our rental car. Santiago has a university with it´s campus right in the old town so of course in addition to all the perigrino activity you have all the students as well, so there is an active tapas bar street Rua Franco that we visited for dinner last night. We will enjoy that area more over the next few nights as we get more energy. We both bought big thick paperback novels at the book store and plan to put our feet up at the various cafes and just read and watch the world go bye.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Arca to Santiago de Compostelo
We stayed at a cute water mill made into a Casa Rural with about 6 rooms, very quiet and clean, run by three partners, one of whom (Javier)spoke English.
We had decided to get an early start and not to wait for breakfast at the inn, since that service would only start at 8 AM. So we rose at 6:30, packed our stuff up for the last time, and used up the last two of our precious protein powders to fortify us with 42 grams of protein each. Javier dropped us off on the Camino right where he picked us up just at 8:00 AM, when it was getting almost light enough to see the Camino markers on the trail.
The first part of the walk was mostly through eucalyptus forest, and it was dark inside the trees as the faint light from impending dawn did not penetrate the path. We walked carefully, enjoying the smell of the trees in the wet, but longing for coffee. We took off our rain gear, which is hot, as it was not raining hard enough to warrant it, and we were thankful for every minute of walking without rain because of hearing a negative weather report.
The first coffee came about 9:30 and the only substantial food they had was a tuna fish empanada. This was rejected loudly by a new camino walker (those with less than 100 kilometers under their belts) with ¨I do not eat fish before noon¨ but we veterans had no such squeamishness and scarfed it down. Leslie also fortified herself with a diet coke can placed in her side pack. We changed our socks and cooled our feet for the last time before the final 12 Km into center of the old city.
It rained as we left the cafe, and we climbed up and up a seemingly interminable mountain that was not shown in our guide. Then another one. The guide shows a relatively small series of climbs for the day but this was quite inaccurate but we were psychologically prepared for this as we had read our friends' Kay and Roger Heigel's description of the last day.
We ran into Camino friends in the cafe, and all along the way, walking with some of them for a while, and meeting some that we had not met or talked to before. All of us shared the experience and the excitement that we would soon make it to our destination. We were expecting to be walking in a large long line but this did not happen, as it was only a few of us together at anyone time and usually they were perigrinos from many miles ago. There was no remaining social reserve, and people offered to photograph others as we passed kilometer markers, signs, and churches. We talked to a German girl with a sprained ankle that we last saw just below O'Cebreiro, and she was still limping but cheerful after walking on it over 150 Kms. She had to get back to college in a few days, flying out of Barcelona.
We were hit by a deluge and some wind as we came close to the top of Mount Gozo, which overlooks the city, and we sheltered under a deserted village roof for a few minutes, joined by a German man who came up a few minutes after us and recognized the advantages of our position. Leslie happily consumed her diet coke saved for just such an occasion. Then it cleared again as we went down into the outskirts of the city, following the yellow arrows and pectin shells placed in the sidewalks. Past the modern car dealers, furniture stores, and the nondescript buildings to reach the edge of the old city and be greeted with another deluge that kept us sheltering under a cafe's awning until it slowed. When the trail became unclear, a stranger saw our uncertainty and pointed us in the right direction.
As we walked the last few hundred meters through the cute old city, we saw the tall and somewhat thinner and more bearded figure of Mark, the young German, leaning out of a cafe' door, and greeted him. He had come in on Saturday, although he had been forced by an injured knee to take a bus for the descent from O'Cebreiro, and he said he limped 40 Km to get in. He directed us to the place to get our certificate, or Compostella, certifying we had walked far enough to qualify as pilgrims. There was an enormous line, and we were soaked, carrying our packs, and dying to get off our feet. No such luck! We had to wait for 45 minutes, gradually moving forward in the line, and finally were given our compostellas. We promptly bought a plastic carrying case and put them in for safe keeping.
Next we went to our hotel, which kept us standing while the room was fixed up, and then we finally got a hot shower. After putting on our social clothes (the alternative to the wet hiking attire), we went out to get some lunch at 3:30 PM or so, and also to find friends from the Way. Several waved at us from open cafe's, including Mark, and we told them we would be cruising the cute streets filled with bars, restaurants, and souvenir shops for the next several days. We have not seen anything like it in any of the cities we visited, and certainly not for the last 100 Km, which has been through farms and small villages.
It is certainly great to make it to Santiago. We are planning to visit the Cathedral for the visit and noon Pilgrim's Mass tomorrow, hopefully with many friends who have been arriving about the same time as us.
We had decided to get an early start and not to wait for breakfast at the inn, since that service would only start at 8 AM. So we rose at 6:30, packed our stuff up for the last time, and used up the last two of our precious protein powders to fortify us with 42 grams of protein each. Javier dropped us off on the Camino right where he picked us up just at 8:00 AM, when it was getting almost light enough to see the Camino markers on the trail.
The first part of the walk was mostly through eucalyptus forest, and it was dark inside the trees as the faint light from impending dawn did not penetrate the path. We walked carefully, enjoying the smell of the trees in the wet, but longing for coffee. We took off our rain gear, which is hot, as it was not raining hard enough to warrant it, and we were thankful for every minute of walking without rain because of hearing a negative weather report.
The first coffee came about 9:30 and the only substantial food they had was a tuna fish empanada. This was rejected loudly by a new camino walker (those with less than 100 kilometers under their belts) with ¨I do not eat fish before noon¨ but we veterans had no such squeamishness and scarfed it down. Leslie also fortified herself with a diet coke can placed in her side pack. We changed our socks and cooled our feet for the last time before the final 12 Km into center of the old city.
It rained as we left the cafe, and we climbed up and up a seemingly interminable mountain that was not shown in our guide. Then another one. The guide shows a relatively small series of climbs for the day but this was quite inaccurate but we were psychologically prepared for this as we had read our friends' Kay and Roger Heigel's description of the last day.
We ran into Camino friends in the cafe, and all along the way, walking with some of them for a while, and meeting some that we had not met or talked to before. All of us shared the experience and the excitement that we would soon make it to our destination. We were expecting to be walking in a large long line but this did not happen, as it was only a few of us together at anyone time and usually they were perigrinos from many miles ago. There was no remaining social reserve, and people offered to photograph others as we passed kilometer markers, signs, and churches. We talked to a German girl with a sprained ankle that we last saw just below O'Cebreiro, and she was still limping but cheerful after walking on it over 150 Kms. She had to get back to college in a few days, flying out of Barcelona.
We were hit by a deluge and some wind as we came close to the top of Mount Gozo, which overlooks the city, and we sheltered under a deserted village roof for a few minutes, joined by a German man who came up a few minutes after us and recognized the advantages of our position. Leslie happily consumed her diet coke saved for just such an occasion. Then it cleared again as we went down into the outskirts of the city, following the yellow arrows and pectin shells placed in the sidewalks. Past the modern car dealers, furniture stores, and the nondescript buildings to reach the edge of the old city and be greeted with another deluge that kept us sheltering under a cafe's awning until it slowed. When the trail became unclear, a stranger saw our uncertainty and pointed us in the right direction.
As we walked the last few hundred meters through the cute old city, we saw the tall and somewhat thinner and more bearded figure of Mark, the young German, leaning out of a cafe' door, and greeted him. He had come in on Saturday, although he had been forced by an injured knee to take a bus for the descent from O'Cebreiro, and he said he limped 40 Km to get in. He directed us to the place to get our certificate, or Compostella, certifying we had walked far enough to qualify as pilgrims. There was an enormous line, and we were soaked, carrying our packs, and dying to get off our feet. No such luck! We had to wait for 45 minutes, gradually moving forward in the line, and finally were given our compostellas. We promptly bought a plastic carrying case and put them in for safe keeping.
Next we went to our hotel, which kept us standing while the room was fixed up, and then we finally got a hot shower. After putting on our social clothes (the alternative to the wet hiking attire), we went out to get some lunch at 3:30 PM or so, and also to find friends from the Way. Several waved at us from open cafe's, including Mark, and we told them we would be cruising the cute streets filled with bars, restaurants, and souvenir shops for the next several days. We have not seen anything like it in any of the cities we visited, and certainly not for the last 100 Km, which has been through farms and small villages.
It is certainly great to make it to Santiago. We are planning to visit the Cathedral for the visit and noon Pilgrim's Mass tomorrow, hopefully with many friends who have been arriving about the same time as us.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Castaneda to Arca
We had breakfast at our lovely noble man's house and it cost is 12 €s each! Today we did about 23KM with various ups and downs and because of the rain the pathway got slippery. Yes, we were in rain gear all day! We had a very slow start and it wasn't until lunch at a small random cafe in Calle that was packed with perigrinos trying to get dried out that we finally were really moving well after our lunch. While we had a few peregrinos with us, it wasn't until close to our finish at 19KM that we started walking in a line of 15 peregrinos in sight. Many are those we recognize by sight if not by name because they have been with us a different times before, so there is a sense of camaraderie that we are close to the end. We shared our lunch bottle of wine with a french lady that was finally completing the Camino after 4 yrs. She started in Le Puy and because she has a B & B in Alsace, she only gets 2 weeks off a year.
All day you could hear fireworks going off. I assumed it was hunters as it was a Sunday and early in the day a car had passed us with a driver in camo clothes pulling a trailer full of beagles. Obviously they were out for a day of hunting.
Chestnut trees are now dropping the nuts on the ground. No one seems to be harvesting them as far as we can tell.
Our casa rural owner came and picked us up when we called from kilometer 19 and took us to our room at a restored water mill. Wonderful place that in season is 75€s but after Oct 1 it is low season, so the rooms are 45€s. They will take us back to the trail tomorrow morning at 8am to start the final walk into Santiago. Rain is expected again tomorrow, and as there were no laundry facilities here, and we didn't arrive until 4:30pm, only the very basic items have been washed in the sink.
We had a lovely dinner including scalllops and a local speciality of their cheese with mince jelly for dessert. It continues to rain outside so they made a fire for us in the dining room stove which was nice. We are excited about tomorrow and our arrival at Santiago!
All day you could hear fireworks going off. I assumed it was hunters as it was a Sunday and early in the day a car had passed us with a driver in camo clothes pulling a trailer full of beagles. Obviously they were out for a day of hunting.
Chestnut trees are now dropping the nuts on the ground. No one seems to be harvesting them as far as we can tell.
Our casa rural owner came and picked us up when we called from kilometer 19 and took us to our room at a restored water mill. Wonderful place that in season is 75€s but after Oct 1 it is low season, so the rooms are 45€s. They will take us back to the trail tomorrow morning at 8am to start the final walk into Santiago. Rain is expected again tomorrow, and as there were no laundry facilities here, and we didn't arrive until 4:30pm, only the very basic items have been washed in the sink.
We had a lovely dinner including scalllops and a local speciality of their cheese with mince jelly for dessert. It continues to rain outside so they made a fire for us in the dining room stove which was nice. We are excited about tomorrow and our arrival at Santiago!
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Church of Santiago Boente
Palas de Rei to Castaneda
Again we had a little mist in the morning but basically sunshine and a beautiful day walking about 24 KM with most of it being rolling hills, so total ascent was only 150 meters. (Heigels, rain is expected tomorrow so we might experience a bit of your Camino)
We got a late start this morning so while we left our room at Los Calbos (44€ with bath) at 8:30 we did not leave our first café and desayuno place until 9:30am. We did not arrive at our casa rural until 5:30pm, so only washed the bare essentials and have those hanging around the room. Tomorrow will be the 3rd walking day in the same clothes so tomorrow we have got to get to our destination earlier in the day so we can get some laundry done!
I (Leslie) don't know what it is with me right now but I keep reacting to bug bites. Last night we had sprayed ourselves with our bug spray and went to bed. I heard mosquitoes and hid under the covers so I thought I would be OK. Somehow I got bitten on my right eyelid and also just under my left eye so needless to say I needed an antihistamine and walked a little sightless for awhile. At this time my eyes are looking better so I am hopeful for tomorrow and thankful I never tripped on anything today!
The path today was mostly on pathways through the woods with wonderful shade. When we were on a couple of the altos (high points) where there were pine trees and in other areas blooming heather plants along with some small little yellow flowers that we don't know. Wonderful bird songs today to keep us company.
Today we did not see that many peregrinos other than the familiar hiking ones we know so this was nice. Many were having the pulpo (octopus) specialty which we tried as well. You need to go to a special Pulperia place that serves the octopus on wooden platters along with the white Ribeiro wine. We have arranged to meet with our Camino family in the Santiago square on Tuesday the 6th at 7pm.
From the high point a few days back at O'Cebreiro we have been primarily going down hill but the last few days will be basically flat but there a lot of ups and downs along the way and we have heard that these small river valleys can be more arduous than one would expect. There is no flat on the Camino!
We are now at a wonderfully restored 16th century noble house with 7 bedrooms. The hot water in the bath went on and on! Pazo de Sedor (55 €s with bath) has a swimming pool and also a paddle tennis court. There are apparently many noble casa rurals like this. A lot more soul than some of the places we have stayed in! We have a reservation in another casa rural for tomorrow night. We will call them (somehow) and they will pick is up from the Camino at a mile marker we say and take us back to it in the following morning.
We are now at about kilometer 44 from Santiago and walked through our first eucalyptus forrest of the Camino at the end of the day. We saw many robin like birds today along with some hawks.
We got a late start this morning so while we left our room at Los Calbos (44€ with bath) at 8:30 we did not leave our first café and desayuno place until 9:30am. We did not arrive at our casa rural until 5:30pm, so only washed the bare essentials and have those hanging around the room. Tomorrow will be the 3rd walking day in the same clothes so tomorrow we have got to get to our destination earlier in the day so we can get some laundry done!
I (Leslie) don't know what it is with me right now but I keep reacting to bug bites. Last night we had sprayed ourselves with our bug spray and went to bed. I heard mosquitoes and hid under the covers so I thought I would be OK. Somehow I got bitten on my right eyelid and also just under my left eye so needless to say I needed an antihistamine and walked a little sightless for awhile. At this time my eyes are looking better so I am hopeful for tomorrow and thankful I never tripped on anything today!
The path today was mostly on pathways through the woods with wonderful shade. When we were on a couple of the altos (high points) where there were pine trees and in other areas blooming heather plants along with some small little yellow flowers that we don't know. Wonderful bird songs today to keep us company.
Today we did not see that many peregrinos other than the familiar hiking ones we know so this was nice. Many were having the pulpo (octopus) specialty which we tried as well. You need to go to a special Pulperia place that serves the octopus on wooden platters along with the white Ribeiro wine. We have arranged to meet with our Camino family in the Santiago square on Tuesday the 6th at 7pm.
From the high point a few days back at O'Cebreiro we have been primarily going down hill but the last few days will be basically flat but there a lot of ups and downs along the way and we have heard that these small river valleys can be more arduous than one would expect. There is no flat on the Camino!
We are now at a wonderfully restored 16th century noble house with 7 bedrooms. The hot water in the bath went on and on! Pazo de Sedor (55 €s with bath) has a swimming pool and also a paddle tennis court. There are apparently many noble casa rurals like this. A lot more soul than some of the places we have stayed in! We have a reservation in another casa rural for tomorrow night. We will call them (somehow) and they will pick is up from the Camino at a mile marker we say and take us back to it in the following morning.
We are now at about kilometer 44 from Santiago and walked through our first eucalyptus forrest of the Camino at the end of the day. We saw many robin like birds today along with some hawks.
Pulpo Galega (octopus) in Melide
Friday, October 2, 2009
Portomarin to Palas de Rei
After a night listening to barking dogs and dreaming of bedbugs, we rose and organized ourselves to get walking at 8:15 and finished coffee and started out of town by 8:30 AM. Luckily the antihistamines seem to be taking hold and Leslie´s bites look under control. It was a cute albergue with some of the people we walked with staying under the same roof, a family of Irish pilgrims, a German couple we have seen for several days and who have also had problems with shin splints that delayed them for several days.
We knew it was going to be a hard day especially with Leslie´s delicate condition. It was a distance of 26 KM but also a rise of 450 meters, with the walk being about two third ascent. But we had a reservation for a room with private bath at the end of the trail, so that was a reasonable motivation. And the weather provided the 32nd day without rain, and the sun came out after the mist cleared at 11 AM after being absent for a day or so. Weather reports predict that we should be OK Saturday but that rain might start on Sunday.
The track ascended steeply out of Portamarin and it was almost 9 Km before we found a place to break for second coffee, which was a necessity since the antihistamine pills for the bug bites made us both sleepy. Then we stopped for a third coffee just a few KMs down the road and some French fellow travellers observed that we were apparently ¨checking out all local the bistros" not doing the Camino! Seems like it sometimes.
We ran into a colorful pilgrim with a donkey, the first we had seen with a donkey, and David engaged him in conversation while Leslie discretely photographed him. He was pleased to talk about his experience, as he was returning to France after completing the pilgrimage and going on to Finisterre. His donkey was bleeding from its hindquarters, and he said that the donkey was attacked by wild dogs at Finisterre while he was sleeping in his camp in a field just a bit away from the donkey. We later saw our French friend Fabien travelling with her dog Belle, who (Belle) loves donkeys, but Fabien said the dog could not make friends with the donkey because the donkey had had such a bad experience with dogs so recently!
The road seemed to go up forever but we ran into our group of Canadian friends in Ligonde 18 KM out, where they were having wine after checking into the local albergue for the night. They invited us to join them in the main square for a celebration in Santiago on the evening of the 6th, and we said we would try to make it. We decided to have some wine and a salad with them to strengthen us for the last 8 Km or so into Palas de Rei. We had them call our hostel to advise that we would be late, and we did get in at about 5 PM pretty tired.
After showering and doing a quick wash of clothes, we went into town to get our sello from the local church, buy some orange juice for our protein shake breakfast, and get some more gauze bandages for Leslie´s injuries. We then had a quick meal and discussed plans for future walks, accommodations, and for reaching Santiago. We made arrangements to have a room with bath both about 20 Kms up for the next two days, but the second one will be a Casa Rural who will have to pick us up on the Camino, take us to the house, and get us back next morning. There is a shortage of rooms or even of sizable villages in this part of the Camino.
We knew it was going to be a hard day especially with Leslie´s delicate condition. It was a distance of 26 KM but also a rise of 450 meters, with the walk being about two third ascent. But we had a reservation for a room with private bath at the end of the trail, so that was a reasonable motivation. And the weather provided the 32nd day without rain, and the sun came out after the mist cleared at 11 AM after being absent for a day or so. Weather reports predict that we should be OK Saturday but that rain might start on Sunday.
The track ascended steeply out of Portamarin and it was almost 9 Km before we found a place to break for second coffee, which was a necessity since the antihistamine pills for the bug bites made us both sleepy. Then we stopped for a third coffee just a few KMs down the road and some French fellow travellers observed that we were apparently ¨checking out all local the bistros" not doing the Camino! Seems like it sometimes.
We ran into a colorful pilgrim with a donkey, the first we had seen with a donkey, and David engaged him in conversation while Leslie discretely photographed him. He was pleased to talk about his experience, as he was returning to France after completing the pilgrimage and going on to Finisterre. His donkey was bleeding from its hindquarters, and he said that the donkey was attacked by wild dogs at Finisterre while he was sleeping in his camp in a field just a bit away from the donkey. We later saw our French friend Fabien travelling with her dog Belle, who (Belle) loves donkeys, but Fabien said the dog could not make friends with the donkey because the donkey had had such a bad experience with dogs so recently!
The road seemed to go up forever but we ran into our group of Canadian friends in Ligonde 18 KM out, where they were having wine after checking into the local albergue for the night. They invited us to join them in the main square for a celebration in Santiago on the evening of the 6th, and we said we would try to make it. We decided to have some wine and a salad with them to strengthen us for the last 8 Km or so into Palas de Rei. We had them call our hostel to advise that we would be late, and we did get in at about 5 PM pretty tired.
After showering and doing a quick wash of clothes, we went into town to get our sello from the local church, buy some orange juice for our protein shake breakfast, and get some more gauze bandages for Leslie´s injuries. We then had a quick meal and discussed plans for future walks, accommodations, and for reaching Santiago. We made arrangements to have a room with bath both about 20 Kms up for the next two days, but the second one will be a Casa Rural who will have to pick us up on the Camino, take us to the house, and get us back next morning. There is a shortage of rooms or even of sizable villages in this part of the Camino.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Sarria to Portomarin
A very mist filled walk as until we stopped at 2pm the sun only peeked out once around noon. We left our pension at few minutes after 7am in total darkness and hiked the 1 KM up through town, having breakfast on the way through.
At 8am, just before day break, we were on the upper edge of town and a mass of probably 50 perigrinos went by, primarily new people doing the 100KM for the compestella. We were not used to having so many people on the trail.
We hiked 23 KM today with an ascent of 300 meters and about the same distance a steep descent at the end of the day. Both of us carried our packs today.
With it being so misty you mainly focused on the stone walls with all the moss, ferns, and birds. We had many robin like birds with us today. We passed through many small hamlets where cattle were being raised and for the first time saw some pigs. We had 2 cafe stops on the way in addition to breakfast so that helps me move along.
We are in Albergues Porto Santiago (29 € s) double room sharing bath room with 10 people. This is the best accommodation we could find. The lady in charge took care of washing and drying our clothes in the machines for the usual 6€ s. Once we had the laundry started we went to the Farmacia to get advice on my bites that were breaking out like chicken pox. She confirmed our suspicions of bed bugs and gave me some antihistamine pills and cream.
What is so funny is that in Triacastela David climbed into my twin bed with me saying he was getting bitten by bed bugs in his bed. I said it must be mosquitoes as I had heard one buzzing. He didn't get any bites in my bed but I sure did!
Lunch was at the main square near the church and I ran in to get our 2nd sello of the day. Now that we are within 100 KM we need 2 stamps per day. Unfortunately the church stamp took up 2 places! Drats as I had only enough squares to get to Santiago. I have a spare credential for us as now it looks like we will need it to put in a few more sellos.
Tomorrow we will play it by ear and see how far we can go.
At 8am, just before day break, we were on the upper edge of town and a mass of probably 50 perigrinos went by, primarily new people doing the 100KM for the compestella. We were not used to having so many people on the trail.
We hiked 23 KM today with an ascent of 300 meters and about the same distance a steep descent at the end of the day. Both of us carried our packs today.
With it being so misty you mainly focused on the stone walls with all the moss, ferns, and birds. We had many robin like birds with us today. We passed through many small hamlets where cattle were being raised and for the first time saw some pigs. We had 2 cafe stops on the way in addition to breakfast so that helps me move along.
We are in Albergues Porto Santiago (29 € s) double room sharing bath room with 10 people. This is the best accommodation we could find. The lady in charge took care of washing and drying our clothes in the machines for the usual 6€ s. Once we had the laundry started we went to the Farmacia to get advice on my bites that were breaking out like chicken pox. She confirmed our suspicions of bed bugs and gave me some antihistamine pills and cream.
What is so funny is that in Triacastela David climbed into my twin bed with me saying he was getting bitten by bed bugs in his bed. I said it must be mosquitoes as I had heard one buzzing. He didn't get any bites in my bed but I sure did!
Lunch was at the main square near the church and I ran in to get our 2nd sello of the day. Now that we are within 100 KM we need 2 stamps per day. Unfortunately the church stamp took up 2 places! Drats as I had only enough squares to get to Santiago. I have a spare credential for us as now it looks like we will need it to put in a few more sellos.
Tomorrow we will play it by ear and see how far we can go.
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