Tuesday, April 16, 2013

14th - 16th April 2013 Kazaringa to Guwahati to Kolkata to Chiang Mai

No I don't want to go with you
After the elephant ride, we breakfasted at our hotel before embarking on the road to Assam's capital city, Guwahati, which we reached on a relatively good road by early afternoon.  Today was the Cow Washing day for the start of the Bihu Celebrations and all cows were to be washed today with special care and perfumed waters in the ponds and rivers.  There were no cows roaming free as they were either being bathed or tied up so they would get dry and remain clean. Cows are scared animals in Assam as in the rest of India.


We settled into our proper 3-star Landmark Hotel, which had AC, hot water in sink and shower, television, and most important, WiFi internet.  We were able to use the internet to contact relatives and let them know we were OK and near the end of our NE India excursion. Around 4pm we went down to the Fabindia shop which Leslie's quilting friend had told her about. From there we went to the Fancy Bazaar where Leslie enjoyed looking at all the textiles and buying 1/4 meters of various printed cottons.  Explanations always had to been given as to why someone would only be buying such small pieces of fabric, since they were too small for even a scarf.

Muga silk sarees on the women and Muga silk shirts on men
Today was the Assamese Bihu celebration, equivalent to our New Year although it is timed for the beginning of rain and consequent planting season for rice, so traffic was light as many of the city's inhabitants had gone back to their villages to be with parents. We found a men's association that was holding a Bihu dance performance and contest that evening just a few blocks from our hotel, and when we went in to buy tickets, they took us to the front where the organizers welcomed us and insisted that we sit in the padded couches in the front row reserved for VIPs. They served us tea, snacks, and each dignitary came over and asked who we were and what we were doing in their town, and seemed to be very pleased to be able to host foreigners. This is because we were ourselves the center of attention in the Northeast, with many locals photographing us with their cell phones, just as we liked to take pictures of the more picturesque among them. There were no other Western tourists to be seen in the city, even during their most important annual celebration.
David had the hard part of pronouncing the Association's name!

The master of ceremonies asked if we would say a few words for the audience after he introduced us on stage, and we agreed.  They gave us honorary plaques and traditional gamosa's (scarves - rectangular white woven cotton with red borders of which the two ends have a thick border in red with different patterns woven in, such as the special rice hats etc.), with camera and TV footage. We also were photographed with the male and female dancers, who were very good, exuding energy and good will, in several dances unlike anything we had seen elsewhere, whether in India or Southeast Asia. Their dancing is unique in our opinion. The dances were sensuous and gave the sense of encouraging  fertility. After our speeches praising their performance, we left during an intermission, as it was late and we had not had dinner, making our excuses to our very hospitable hosts.
Wearing our Gamosa scarves that were presented to us

Next day the museum was closed, but Leslie was highly successful in finding unique bits soft cotton and special silk cloth, first from a fabric shop, and next, at our guide's suggestion, from the remnants that different tailor shops kept in large bags.  Can't believe she was routing through the scrap bags of the tailors thoroughly enjoying herself. The silk that the Assamese prize for their traditional wear and also for the clothing for the festival is called Muga silk. Assam has received the geographical indication tag for being the sole producer of that silk,which is famous for its natural golden color and can not be bleached or dyed because it is not porous enough to absorb the die. There are two other silks that come from Assam, and sericulture (the raising of silk worms for the production of silk) is popular. While we did not see the process in Assam, in speaking with our driver and the young woman at the weaving center yesterday, it is very similar to the process we saw in Luang Namtha, Laos.
Hens? Roosters?


Returning to our hotel, we packed our stuff away for air travel, went to the airport at Guwahati for our one-hour Jet Airways flight to Kolkata (old Calcutta), then our 5-hour wait in the international departure area, then a 2-hour flight to Bangkok.  Guwahati airport security gave Leslie a hard time for all the electronics she was carrying in her backpack, and put everything through individually (chargers, car charging device for any sort of electronics, wireless router, computer, three cell phones etc.) David also had his own issues as security would not believe he had metal hips and demanded to see the scars! That was a first for him, but we had always joked that somewhere in our travels that was going to happen.

We managed to get a bit of sleep before our hour flight back to Chiang Mai, which seemed so welcoming with a quiet airport, polite air-conditioned taxi driver, regular electricity and internet. We were happy to be home in our little apartment after two months on the road.

Final thoughts on Nagaland


If you were coming to Nagaland to see traditional tribe cultures don’t bother to come as there is nothing left. With 98% of the community Baptist the locals all were western clothes and there is nothing much really to see culturally. 

Both Nagaland and Arunachal are recognized as having diverse biospheres which lead to a very high bird and butterfly count not to mention the fauna.  For us the question in Nagaland was why had there been such a high conversion rate to Christianity? We had not seen the missionary be so successful at conversion in the various countries that we have been to where missionaries have been active.

A Doctoral thesis by Vihuli Sema entitled The American Baptist Mission and the Nagas for which there is an abstract available on line has these remarks on that same subject.

“Chapter four is an elaborate discussion of the missionary contribution in the field of education, literature and health care. No doubt these were some of the methods adopted to achieve their one object, the conversion of the Nagas to Christianity, but the missionary contribution in these fields cannot be underestimated. They were the pioneers in the field of education and contributed immensely to its growth and development in the Naga Hills. Spread of secular education as desired by the administration was not the primary object of the American Baptists. They wanted a workable literacy among the hill men and with this end in view the missionaries established primary schools and a few training schools for teachers. Despite such limitations, the mission schools remained the chief agencies for imparting education to the Nagas. The missionaries also contributed immensely to the development of Naga literature. In fact most of the written Naga dialects owe their origin and development to the Christian agencies. Eager to get vernacular translations of the New Testament into circulation as quickly as possible, the missionaries at Impur and Kohima reduced the various Naga dialects to written forms and built up a body of vernacular literature which represented the first literature the Naga had ever possessed.

 Another sphere of missionary’s activity brought hope and new life to the Nagas hitherto steeped in superstitions and ignorance, and that was medical service. This appeared to be one of the important adjuncts to the evangelistic programs of the missionaries from the beginning. It was seen as the necessary embodiment of the spirit of Christianity, whose founder was Himself a great Healer. The missionaries established hospitals, dispensaries, and other kinds

of health centuries . Through the dispensaries the mission could serve the Nagas even in the remotest areas. The service of Rivenburg, Loops, and Bailey as well as the nonprofessional contributions made by Clark and others dispensed medicine for ordinary ailments did help to project the figure of a compassionate missionary "who became more acceptable to the people. It also contributed a great deal to the material progress of the Naga Hills.

Chapter five deals with conversion and attempts to explain it in the historical context. Clearly it can be seen that Christian conversion among the Nagas cannot be explained in terms of the number of distribution of foreign missionaries, as this line of reasoning is contradicted by the lack of consistent correlation between the incidence of conversion and the presence of foreign missionaries. Shifting the focus from the missionaries to the converts, one might interpret the latter as motivated by political, social, or other forms of self-interest. But this confuses the consequence of conversion for its cause. Religious change in Nagaland in other words, cannot be explained in strictly non-religious terms. The key of these changes is to be found in the particular forms of interaction between the Naga religious cosmology and their social relations, each of which influenced the other. The traditional Naga cosmology may be characterized as a two-tiered scheme, consisting at the upper tier of a supreme deity who underpinned the universe. This supreme deity though benevolent was but vaguely understood and seldom approached because of his remoteness from the everyday concerns of Naga communities. The lower tier consisted of a host of minor spirits who were more sharply perceived because they underpinned the immediate reality which Nagas experienced , and therefore needed constant appeasement to keep them from bringing havoc upon individuals, or whole villages . Within this framework on finds a good deal of room for variation and elaboration from one Naga group to another. Secondly Naga religions were not static but dynamic, as we find that particular deities of one Naga group were occasionally incorporated into the cosmology of other groups. An awareness of the variations among Naga religion and of their dynamic fluid quality helps to suggest how Christian conversion took place in the Naga Hills. In using this approach one finds that in fact Christianity was not presented uniformly among Naga groups, that the Christian cosmology was fitted into the Ao religious system very differently then it was into the Sema, Lotha or Angami system. Secondly one finds that the various Naga communities experienced different sorts of social changes before and during their exposure t o Christian influence, and that this affected their different responses to that influence.

Despite all their denunciation against the social dimension of Naga religion, prohibiting this, denying that, some missionaries were not at all reluctant to rely very heavily on its cosmological dimension. Thus we see them tinkering with Naga cosmologies, trying to fit their own system into the Nagas, but doing so in a somewhat inconsistent way. In the long run it appears that those missionaries who found the most success were those who allowed the Nagas to identify the Christian conception of God within their own religious system.  However as long as the Nagas experience of reality remained confined to their immediate locality, the upper tier of their cosmology occupied by their supreme deity who underpinned the entire universe, was accordingly given only slight attention . This was why the early missionary efforts met with relatively little success. The missionaries had been elaborating the upper tier of the Naga cosmology at a time when the Nagas pre-occupied with a concern with more immediate spirits were paying little attention to that tier. But world events like the integration of the Naga Hills with British India and World War II confronted Nagas with a larger reality than their lower tier of local spirits could be seen as controlling. When this occurred, Nagas respond d by paying greater attention to the supreme deity who underpinned the entire universe and who appeared more clearly in charge of things. Amidst this breakdown and ultimately capitalizing on it , were the missionaries who claimed to be tapping a source of power the one God ’Tsungrem ' or ‘ Alhon' , far greater in magnitude and far more actively involved with the entire macrocosm than any of the former spirits of Naga cosmology. The acceptance of this Christian conception of God seem to have been facilitated by (a) his ability to deliver men from fear of their malevolent spirits (b) his identification with new solutions to old problems in the area of physical afflictions, and ( c) His infinite power rendered both timeless and challengeable by his being enshrined in a written text, the Christian scriptures.

Chapter Six deals with the impact of Christianity on Naga culture. Culture here implies the personality of a people or a society. It includes the totality of people’s traditions (what they believe) attitudes (what they desire) customs (what they do) and institutions (how they live). Christianity has struck its roots deep in the Naga soil and brought far reaching changes in every facet of Naga life and thought. For centuries the Nagas had been living in isolation, institutionalized warfare between neighboring villages and tribes had been a way of life, the mainspring of many of the political, social and cultural institutions of the people. Now the Christian emphasis upon love for neighbour and enemy alike provided an ideological basis for the new relationship among villages and tribes that British administration and the prohibition of raiding made necessary.  The new attitudes were seen in the extensive evangelistic activities undertaken by Christians of one tribe among members of other tribes who had traditionally been their enemies.  Another area of culture change stimulated by missionary influence was tile breaking of old barriers within and between linguistic groups. The Mission organized large associations to serve as forums for discussion on social welfare activities as well as church policy. But these Associations also served to integrate Nagas of the same language groups. With their huge annual meetings drawing thousands from distant villages, these Associations not only broke down inter village barriers but raised to a much higher level the forum of discussion on issues formerly decided only at the village level. For the Nagas Christianity came as a liberator from ”spiritual and social demons' . But in the process of 1iberatinq the tribes it is not always easy to tell the difference between the "demons" of oppression and superstition that binds the bodies and mind of the people and valuable elements in the traditional cultures that might best be preserved to enrich the Christian community. Sometimes the missionaries seemed to oppose traditional activity simply because they did not fit in with their own rather solemn notions of Christian propriety. For instance, the missionaries forbade converts to participate in the Feast of Merit, and boys were prohibited from attending their morungs or dormitories since these were associated with their former life. The Feast of Merit discouraged by the missionaries fulfilled an important obligation of the well-to-do for the good of the community irrespective of their economic positions. This said to be the Naga way of distributing Wealth which had a greater social value. Again the morungs around which the social, political, religious, legal and military life of the Nagas revolved sank into insignificance due to missionary propaganda. Morungs were supposed to be the “most imposing and well built” houses in the Naga villages. They were also the centers of art and carving. Mills lamented that in the Christian villages Morungs were no longer built and the old xylophones (long wooden drums) came into disuse. The disappearance of the social and communal institution was followed in it’s train by the emergence of a spirit of new individualism. This in turn led to the erosion of the family and clannish ties which were once very important elements of Naga life. Education, occupational mobility and social intercourse also led to inter tribal marriages.  Marriages with non-Nagas also took place. Such inter-marriages have eroded family and community life to a great extent. The convert being thus cut off from the community and village life became a stranger in his village and began to despise his own tribe and cultural inheritance. Many of the charges against the missionaries of disrupting the Naga way of life are not without foundation. However the latter-day missionaries appreciating some of the valuable elements in the Naga culture switched on to a more realistic policy and tried t o preserve all t that was good in the old tradition and culture of the Naqas.

In conclusion it may be said that the American Baptist Mission came out of European and American cultural backgrounds. When they entered the Naga Hills and began working among them, two cultures came face to face. The when two cultural groups meet they effect each other. Usually the dynamic one makes its headway inside the weaker.  On principle a certain amount of tribal disintegration was unavoidable when it came in direct touch with the agent of western culture. It can be admitted frankly that the missionaries that came from America were the bears of both the good and the bad qualities of their nation.  They could not strip themselves of the cultural characteristics of their land and people and this influenced to some extent their attitude toward the tribal culture. But the allegation that Christianity was responsible for the disintegration of the Naga culture and life are interconnected the more so in tribal life, where they tend to be undifferentiated.  The missionaries made an attempt to change the core, the center of tribal religion, but they had attempted to retain the outer framework as much as possible. But a change of center meant a change of world view, philosophy of life and perspective of spiritual and moral values. Thus some kind of change or alteration was inevitable."

 

Monday, April 15, 2013

Video Rongali Bihu Men's second dance

We enjoyed the rhythm and energy in these dances



Sunday, April 14, 2013

Video Rongali Bihu Men's third dance with brass cymbals

This is another traditional Assamese folk dance by the men - wearing traditional clothes for this dance. Very smooth and graceful execution of the movements

Video Rongali Bihu Women's dance

Beautiful Muga silk sarees. This special gold colored silk is only produced here in Assam.

Video Rongali Bihu Men's first Dance

We had a fabulous time as the accidental tourist that becomes the VIP guests at the Ulubari Sanmilon's (Men's association close by our hotel) Bihu celebration.


Saturday, April 13, 2013

13th April 2013 Kazaringa Nature Reserve by jeep safari

After an early breakfast, at 7:15AM we met our bird/animal guide for the park, Somnath Borah, and got into our jeep, which had space for four in bench seats in the back. We filled this space up since we let our driver Bishal join us, as he was such an enthusiastic birder. It had started to rain so they put up a canvas top as we drove to the park entrance for the central area of the Park, but luckily it stopped once we started into the park, so we removed the canvas and stood up as we drove along.
Our Jeep with us and Birding guide

We immediately saw two Crested Serpent Eagles perched in trees just above the road, and the day went very well for bird-watching.  At the bottom of this posting is a listing of over 70 different species seen, which excludes those we could not reasonably identify or considered insignificant, like sparrows.

The Park is most famous for having the world's biggest concentration of Indian Rhinos, over 2,000 of them, and we saw a number without really trying.  We also saw deer, wild buffalo, wild boar, mongoose, and a 10-foot King Cobra that was sunning itself beside the road.
King Cobra

We left the center part of the Park before noon, visited an ATM that was empty and a weaving school and shop that was very good, had quick set-menu lunch at the hotel, and set off again in our jeep for a tour of the western part of the Park.  

The weaving school was for training local women in weaving with a jacquard card reader so that their hand woven cloth would be faster. The proprietor of Village Weaves asked Leslie if she would like to try her hand at the table cloth fabric that was being woven and she was delighted to try. 
A weaving discussion


Here we added about another twenty or thirty bird species, the additions coming more slowly because it was later in the day and also because we had seen most of the more common species. We left the park at sunset as we had a two-hour limit that we probably went over.
Indian (one-horned) Rhino

We had organized a trip on elephant in the central part of the park for 5AM next morning, so we rose early and got dressed in minimal light because the electricity was off. Meeting our guides at 4:30 AM, we were the first in line and got the first elephant, a large male 15-year-old with tusks, getting on to our seats from a raised platform.  About 8 other elephants loaded after us, some including whole families of Indian tourists, but luckily they were quiet except for one crying child.

Crested Serpent Eagle

Just before we mounted, a disturbance occurred in which three local dogs ran into the park to chase a baby sambar (large deer) which was near to their homes. Shouting guards did not deter them, and one ran off after them with a 12 gauge shotgun.  We watched the mother try to keep the dogs at bay, chasing one at a time, but her faun became separated, and then we heard a shot which almost stampeded the elephants. Only two dogs came back, but the faun never made it back to its mother, which stayed in the area for more than an hour calling for it. We surmise that the dog got the faun and was shot for his infraction of park rules.




Baby rhino nursing

The elephant ride was interesting as we were off the road and could get very close to the rhinos, sambar, hog deer, and one wild elephant, without causing them too much concern. By 6AM we were being unloaded onto another platform a couple of miles away, and this was a relief for David as his hips were not used to this stretching.  Altogether, the Park was a nice way to spend a day after all the time travelling from town to town.





Bird List from the Park

1. Bengal Bushlark
2. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker
3. Lineated Barbet
4. Red-breasted Parakeet
5. Red-headed Vulture
6. Red Collared Dove
7. Changeable Hawk Eagle
8. Common Woodshrike
9. White-throated Kingfisher
10. Grey-headed Fish Eagle
11. Purple Heron
12. European Turtle Dove
13. White-tailed Stonechat
14. River Tern
15. Pallas's Fish Eagle
Comments : saw several including one with a nest
16. Cinereous Vulture
17. Black-necked Stork
18. Greater Painted-snipe
19. Little Cormorant
20. Common Redshank
21. Common Greenshank
22. Common Sandpiper
23. Swamp Francolin
24. Rock Pigeon (Common Pigeon)
25. Ruby-cheeked Sunbird
26. Bar-headed Goose
Comments : migratory
27. Mallard
28. Spot-billed Duck (Indian Spot-billed Duck)
29. Asian Koel
30. Lesser Adjutant
31. Greater Adjutant
32. Saker Falcon
33. Oriental Magpie Robin
34. Common Hoopoe
35. Paddyfield Pipit
36. Spangled Drongo (Hair-crested Drongo)
37. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
38. Black-headed Ibis
39. Jungle Myna
40. Common Myna
41. Alexandrine Parakeet
Comments : at sun down large groups coming to eat fresh grass stalks near the lake. land like a helicopter.
42. Grey-backed Shrike
43. White Wagtail
44. Yellow Wagtail (Western Yellow Wagtail)
45. Kalij Pheasant
46. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
47. Coppersmith Barbet
48. Rufous Treepie
49. Chestnut-tailed Starling
50. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon
51. Red-wattled Lapwing
52. Barn Swallow
53. Woolly-necked Stork
54. Grey Heron
55. Spot-billed Pelican
56. Black Drongo
57. Large-billed Crow
58. Indian Roller
59. Bronze-winged Jacana
60. Slender-billed Vulture
61. Green Imperial Pigeon
62. White-breasted Waterhen
63. Spotted Dove
64. Stork-billed Kingfisher
65. Pied Kingfisher
66. Intermediate Egret (Yellow-billed Egret)
67. Little Egret
68. Asian Openbill
69. Rose-ringed Parakeet
Comments : lovely group at dusk eating grass shoots with alexandrite parakeets
70. Red Junglefowl
71. Crested Serpent Eagle
72. Asian Pied Starling (Pied Myna)
73. Spotted Owlet
74. Asian Barred Owlet
75. Greater Coucal

Friday, April 12, 2013

April 12th Mejuli island to Kazaranga National park on mainland


We rose and were served a good breakfast prepared by our guide and a helper, since Bader had left and there was no one else who knew how to prepare Western eggs.  After some bird-watching right around our cottage, seeing numerous Kingfishers catching fish and chasing each other out of their territories, we drove to

a traditional mask-maker at a local Sutra or monastery.

Inner Sanctum of Sutra

Then we went on to traditional home-based pottery makers, who use native clay and large open kilns to prepare thousands of pots for sale throughout the region.

Making pots for curd



Proceeding to our next ferry, we found it was large, had perhaps over a hundred and fifty passengers and 30 motorcycles, and they loaded our car last, so we waited in the heat for half an hour or so. The trip took an hour and a half going against the stream and then we unloaded the car  at Nimatighat, and the driver had to gun his engine to get up the steep hill off the ferry.
One of the many people keeping an eye on us

We had lunch at a hotel 20 kilometers on in Jorhat, and had another request for someone to join our car, this time Bader, the manager of the homestay where we had been the night before.  Again we declined on safety and space reasons, but this seems to be a common practice since locals are used to having 10 people or so in one of these vehicles. 
What do you mean no room in your car? Safety?

A couple of hours more and we reached our hotel in Kazaranga, which was set up as about 8 modern bungalows separated from the reception/dining building by a garden, and had an overhead fan and hot water heater, as well as real sheets on the bed. We took advantage of this latter factor to have our silk cocoon sleep sacks, which had been used continuously for several weeks and were getting very ripe, laundered. We set up a bird-watching jeep safari to the park for the next morning at 7:15, had dinner, charged our computers, downloaded a few pictures from our camera, and went to bed.
The usual overflowing ferry~
 

Thursday, April 11, 2013

April 11th Ziro to Mejuli island

Thursday started early after pouring rain all night.  It was still raining in the morning after we set off with Lawrence and Bishal. Lawrence had asked to have his wife accompany us 40 kilometers till we changed guides. We had said no because of the seat belt issue and the back area being full of all luggage, so there was not enough space. The distance we were to carry him was now much farther than the 40 km that we were going to carry him and his wife and was more or less back to the second plan where we would pick up our new guide Bumoni at the town of Lakhimpur 23 kilometers before the ferry port of Balighat to Mejuli  Island. Ziro had been cold all the nights we were there, and we had worn not only our fleeces and vests, but a scarf over our heads. The electric heater had only worked intermittently when there was electric power, and gave off a feeble heat at best. We were ready to being heading down to the plains where it was warmer. We curved, chugged and careened along the road, stopping to check out different birds.  Again we saw hunters but rarely any weavers.

We stopped for lunch around noon at a small roadside restaurant and had a fairly quick meal.  If you order rice you will get at least 3 other accompaniments with it (a thali like meal), but if you order a parotha, you will get only one accompaniment. Ordering can be quite easy.  We are greatly missing our salads and fruits, as we are very cautious as it relates to food and water. 

We passed through the state borders of Arunachal and Assam without incident. Our connection with Bompier went smoothly and Lawrence went off on his way back to Arunachal.  Bishal and Lawrence had argued over the time to leave in the morning – Bishal wanting earlier and Lawrence later – we had compromised but as Bishal had stated, the road from Lakhimpur to the ferry was very bad, being narrow and full of potholes and lots of traffic of various modes of transportation, all causing havoc.  We reached the first of the two ferries for the day, and as it only took 3 cars, we were delighted that we were the last one on the boat.  US safety standards do not apply to these ferries in terms of life jackets, load occupancy etc.  We decided to stand on the deck versus sitting in the car or going down to a lower deck, in order to have a better survival chance in case of accident. This first ferry ride was 45 minutes, at which point we offloaded onto a sand bar and drove along for ten minutes before getting to the next (even smaller) ferry. That ferry only takes one car at a time and is made of two wooden boats held together with bamboo and planks of wood.  We were then pulled by a rope across the narrow shallow channel  (just 2 feet deep at this time) to the town of Garamur.

our two boats tied together pull across the river ferry...

As we were driving from the ferry area sandbank to the main island road, we saw many houses of the Missing tribe and you could hear the clack clack of a loom.  We stopped to inspect one weaver’s handwork on her loom set up under her house.  As we drove through the rest of the island we were to see many looms set up under the houses with either women working on them or else set up with some weaving in process. Leslie had admired many handloomed sarees and skirts on the ferry, and had been informed on asking that was the Missing tribe style. 

Lovely to see so many looms under the houses!

We stopped at the Ghormur Satra (monastery)  to see the namghar (prayer hall). Medjuli  island is the heart of the neo-Vaishnavite philosophy which overly simplified is the worshiping of Vishnu, the Hindu god know for Preservation. One of the monks opened up the inner sanctum which hosted an eternal flame. He blessed us with a flower and some holy flower water that one was to sip (only a pretense on our part) and then put the remainder on one’s head, which we did.

We were taken to the Ygdrasill Bamboo Guest cottage which is near the town of Garamur on the west side of the island not to far from where our ferry had landed. This guest house is basically 2 bamboo thatched hut cottages perched on concrete pylons over a marshy, bird filled lake. The shower was the old bucket routine and we enjoyed a warm water rinse before dinner. Our home stay host was an ex-tour guide Bader, who spoke quite good English. Though Bader said it was not necessary to sleep under a mosquito net, we requested that one be put over the bed as we had seen mosquitos since arriving.  As the whole large room, which included our eating area and out back the bathroom, was really open air both from the roof eaves area and also all the wide cracks in the bamboo floor, there was no point in trying to plug in some of our electrical mosquito zappers, which was just as well as there was only battery powered electricity that was intermittent.



Jacquard Loom - cardboard cards

Card maker for the loom
After a quick cup of tea we went out to look at the local weaving cooperative. For the first time we saw a more “industrialized” cottage industry of weaving where a chain of punched cards with weaving patterns were used to speed up the process of selecting the threads.   This is by guiding the warp thread so that the weft will either lie above or below it. The sequence of raised and lowered threads is what creates a pattern in the textile. Leslie had heard from a weaver in CM in Stitches that these jacquard looms were the basis from which computers were developed. 



We told Bader what an excellent meal he had served and then, we he had left,  proceeded to eat one of our two remaining biscuit packs, since we needed something sweet.
Colorful Mising hand woven clothing for sale


Tucked up in her sleep sack
We did not get much sleep as during the night there was an electrical storm that was at first only flashes of lightening (Leslie wondered who was outside our cottage shining a flash light around as the light filtered through the bamboo walls) and then it became a full storm.  After the storm there was a loud alarm like sound that made Leslie think I had gone to the bathroom with our little bodyalarm (alarm, light, seat-belt cutter gadget) and had inadvertently pushed the alarm button instead of the light.  This had happened once before in Mon and we had not been able to turn it off so had to muffle it under our luggage.  As she went to leap out of bed to assist me she found me right there.  Still concerned about the noise she now was convinced it was our Nuk-Alert going off and that something must have happened in the Korean standoff.  Needless to say in the end it was recognized that the noise was just screaming cicadas but neither of us had a good nights sleep!


Wednesday, April 10, 2013

10 April 2013 Ziro and its surrounds

We were able to get our breakfast served promptly at 7AM, which was probably due to the fuss we had kicked the night before when dinner was half an hour late.  There are other Indians in our hotel, but they mostly eat in their rooms, and we are somewhat the curiosities to other guests and even to the staff.
We went for a short birding walk, and were surprised to find a group of 10 Scarlet Minivets passing through our hotel grounds. Then we walked through our guide’s village, met his wife, and inspected the village rice paddies.  This area is known for their system of growing rice and fish in the same paddy field, which requires putting in baby fish at the right time, then planting the young rice sprouts, and keeping the correct level of water until both the rice and fish can be harvested.


Alters outside of homes



We saw the ladies with the nose plugs, photographed a few, and then did some more birding as there are different ones at this higher elevation. We checked out two internet cafes, which would let us use their computers if we provided copies of our passport, but would not let us connect our own computers to their internet. Apparently a tourist had done this and put something illegal on the internet, and the owners got in trouble.  So we will see if we can get some blog material on a flash drive and put some stuff on the blog, and answer any messages.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

9 April 2013 Daporijo to Ziro


We started out with an immediate sighting of a Marsh Harrier along the road leaving town, then when we stopped to see the local market, our driver had to repair a flat tire, and when we finally got going, we were stopped by angry teenage males swinging heavy sticks at a roadblock.  We stayed in the car while our guide got out investigating to see if we could pass the roadblock. He found out that two teenage girls from the village had been killed the night before by a hit-and-run Tata Solo vehicle just like ours. After a few anxious minutes, a tribal leader appeared and told the boys that we were not  a taxi vehicle but a tourist vehicle, and to let us through, which they did. We saw a number of good birds, including an eagle eating a rodent on a tree,  several  kestrals, and some spectacular Yellow throated Barbets.

The road went up to a 6,000 foot pass, and then down a few hundred feet to Ziro, which is headquarters for the Apa Tani Tribe. The Apa Tani are well known for the women having large nose plugs and facial tattoos. Our guide is Apa Tani and explained that a couple of hundred years ago his tribe became enemies with the neighboring Gallo Tribe, and sought to distinguish themselves by having tattoos and the women tattoos and noseplugs. This has started to die out about 40 years ago but generally the women over 40 generally have them.

We did not have any reservation here, but managed to get into probably the best place in town, Pratigya Zero Valley Resort. The hotel has hot water showers and an electric space heater, both of which work reasonably well if the electricity is working, which seems to be one hour on, one hour off. It also has satellite TV, and we saw part of a movie “Tough Night in Little Tokyo”, before the electricity went off. We had to wash clothes as we have not been anywhere with washing facilities for a while, and this hotel said “Do them yourself” when we asked if they did laundry. The problem is that it is cold, damp and rainy, and we are worried if anything will dry, but we will have faith in the electric heater to work enough to do the job.

Monday, April 8, 2013

8 April 2013 Aalo to Daporijo


One of the many river valley we have driven through
We set off early as it was another 6 hour drive that would turn into 7 or more, with our stops. We drove along and stopped frequently for the many birds along the way, had lunch at a little shack that offered basic rice and daal for a dollar, and reached Daporijo by 3:30 PM.  The town had very little to offer, and the hotel we saw looked uninviting, so we drove out to the small village of Ligu.  There we found a basic but quiet Ligu Tourist Lodge, with a western toilet, but no hot water, except if heated in a home next door that ran the lodge and provided dinner and breakfast.  The guide and driver stayed across the hall in another of the 6 small rooms.
Our guest house for the night in Ligu



We enjoyed a short stroll around the village, seeing the Metune (local bison) and other animals as well as the village people on their own.  We had not seen another tourist since leaving Aalo where there were three Russians sharing our hotel the last night, as well as a French couple the night before, and one German the first night.  Overall, we usually see no tourists at all on an average day.

Sunday, April 7, 2013

April 7, 2013 Aalo to memorial service four hours’ drive away


Villages along the way
We had agreed to a short day with two hour out then back birding trip as we were exhausted from 8-hour driving days, and had been told that we would do this on the way to a tea plantation with excellent birding along the road.  The road turned out to be more than three hours with no stops, and four hours including moderate stops for birding. The last two hours plus were off the “main” road and on a dirt track that wound up some spectacular jungle scenes, with many birds.

Lovely women who delighted in having their picture taken
We arrived at a high point a few kilometers short of the tea plantation, and our guide asked us to stop as there was some sort of celebration going on below.  He investigated and advised that we were invited down for snacks and late lunch with a group of about 50 people, men, women and kids.  After being introduced to the leaders, one being the local area deputy commissioner, and the other the first medical doctor from that tribal area, we learned that his son had died a year before and they were celebrating the one-year anniversary of his death in a happy way. Many of the people had never seen white-skinned Europeans before, and came up to check us out, particularly Leslie’s white skin. Leslie showed the ladies some pictures of weaving in other hill tribes, and they explained their own weaving and clothing and jewelry. Most tribal people are hunters, and we met the macho hunter of the village, who had shot two tigers with a 12 gauge shotgun.  The brother of the dead man is a national park advisor, so he told us they all knew it was not good to shoot birds, but that hunting was a major part of the culture.

Enjoying a translated conversation about their weaving


Planting rice on steep hill side - dry cultivation
By the time we returned to our hotel, it was again after dark, but we had had a good time.  We saw some spectacular birds, including the red Trogan and a golden Minivet.  In reflection, it is apparent that we were set up to go to the memorial reception because the lady friend of our guide, who directed us today and had taken us to the other village the day before, was a good friend of the family and probably needed a ride to get there, so they simply arranged it that way and acted like it was a surprise when the found the memorial celebration.

Man's basket is smaller than woman's

Adi Gallo woman carrying wood and her rattan umbrella for her basket

David and Bishall looking at birds

Saturday, April 6, 2013

Video Mopin procession

After eating lunch and entertainment was over the festival than processes to each of the houses in the village offering the hospitality that day. Wishes for a successful harvest are given.


Video David Singing "there was a man who had a goat" at Mopin Festival

As a way of thanking our hosts for a wonderful Festival David added to the entertainment accompanied by our guide Lawrence and the village school teacher. Singing one of his father's favorite songs - "there was a man who had a goat."



April 6, 2013 Aalo to Zirdo village, the Adi Gallo tribe celebration of Mopin with us as honored guests


We took off with an additional rider who was to take us to a remote village that had never had a foreigner visit, and which was supposed to be two hours’ drive away. It turned out to be about four hours away, with stops to look at birds, including almost an hour of off-road driving on a track leading through jungle and paddy fields to the village, which was called Zirdo, and was a traditional Adi Gallo village.

Mopin Procession in town of Bassar

Rice fields starting to be planted


Adi man making basket on his porch

Serving Rice Beer with Rice paste on face

Girls dancing  - see video

Our Rice Plates are full


Special rice basket for house ceremony
The road to the village

Young girl putting rice water on alter

Gifts we received with the weavers


We were taken in to the headman’s house on wooden stilts, given seats of honor by the central fire, given rice wine in bamboo, followed by cooked wild boar,  venison, some metoon (a bison-like animal), and pork, all served in wrapped leaves along with rice and some greens. The schoolteacher had been called back to the village to serve as interpreter and master of ceremonies when they heard that they would have foreigner s as guests, and he announced our names and that we were from America. We took some pictures, and they took a few of us. Then the ladies danced, an older lady sang a traditional song, the elder men chanted old blessings, and then everyone had their meal. We were given rice on large leaf with daal and some condiments, and kindly given spoons to eat with, while everyone else was eating with their hands. David decided that he should reciprocate for the entertainment by singing them a “traditional American song”, which the interpreter explained to them about “The man who had a goat”.  Then the interpreter and one of the tribe helped David by echoing the song with him, and it went over OK after he started mimicking the goat throwing up the red shirts to flag the train.  The interpreter then announced that the village had presents for us, and put on a hand-woven skirt for Leslie and vest for David, and we were photographed with the makers. Then the men and the women separately had conga lines of chanters go to different houses to bless them for good luck in the coming year. Then, after visiting another home for tea, we set off on our 4-hour trip back, arriving back at our hotel at about 8PM. It was a long but very interesting day.