Wednesday, October 31, 2012

October 31 Huay Xai to Luang Namtha, Laos

We had breakfast at Bap Guesthouse, where we caught a tuk tuk transfer to our minibus a few hundred yards down the road. Departure of our tuk tuk was delayed about 10 minutes as three Danish girls were disputing added items on their bill with the proprietor of Bap. Initially there were just the five of us in the minivan, but along the way the driver picked up another five and luggage plus a baby, so we were definitely full. It turned out that five of us were paying full fare (about $12), and one other gentlemen on the trip was charged $7, and the others were friends and spouse and daughter of the driver so no fare charged. We were happy being in the front of the bus.

The trip was supposed to be three hours but turned into four and a quarter, door to door. It was a winding road through the mountains, with rice paddies and other cultivation in the valleys, and small villages every few miles. You could guess at which ethnic group lived in the village by whether the houses were on stilts or not, whether you saw a spirit gate indicating animist religion, or the tribal clothing hanging on the line. We were dropped off individually in reverse to the amount of fare paid. So we saw some interesting sights driving through the town and it's suburbs.

Luang Namtha is the name of one of Laos' most northern provinces, which is named after the town we are going to first visit in this province. We will later travel further north in LNT province to Muang Sing. Laos shares a 140 kilometer land border with China and its northwest frontier with Myanmar follows a 130 kilometer stretch of the Mekong River, which we crossed to enter Laos.

"Luang Namtha’s main industries are agriculture, wood processing, lignite and copper mining, handicraft production, transportation and tourism. In 2005 per-capita GDP stood at US$ 280 per year and was growing at an annualized rate of 7.7%. In terms of employment, most people are engaged in agriculture, planting rice, corn, vegetables, cassava and peanuts. Other important agricultural products are buffaloes, cattle, fish, chickens, rubber, teakwood, watermelons, sugarcane and peppers. Forest products such as bamboo shoots, mushrooms, rattan, cardamom and ginger are also key sources of income for the rural people."(tourism website"

Since the guest house we had reserved turned out to be a good 500 yards off the main drag down an unlit dirt road, we turned around and went back to the downtown Zuela Guest House. This is considered a budget place at about $10 for a room with fan and private ba, $14 with AC. We are in a fan room since the AC rooms are full until tomorrow, when we will try to move.  It is not hot, but leaving the windows open lets in the noise, which is substantial as they are celebrating Loy Kratong here a month earlier than it is celebrated in Thailand.  Luckily they do not seem to have as much fireworks as Chiang Mai or we would get no sleep even with sleeping pills and ear plugs!

All restaurants in town but one seemed to be closed at lunch time; we learned they all were watching canoe paddling races on the river, but we had a simple Laos meal for about $3 each including the Beer Laos that we have taken to. We finally located a travel guide and explained that we wanted to visit a number of hill tribe villages, particularly those that our friend Victoria Vorreiter had filmed some six years ago. He will arrange a tuk tuk to take us and a guide tomorrow. In preparation, we rented bicycles and rode down to the market to buy gifts to take to the village, including both dried and fresh chilli peppers, fresh limes, pencils, erasers, and notebooks for the kids, and a soccer ball for each village. We ended up walking the bikes back as the baskets were so full and heavy that the bikes were unbalanced.  We also have some Big Brother Mouse children's books to give away that we had bought last year. That should lighten our backpacks a little!

The Lao language is very similar to the Thai language so we can communicate without too much problem in the market place.  Many programs on TV here are broadcast in Thai so that also helps as many of the Lao people understand Thai.

We found an excellent Indian restaurant up the street owned by a young Indian married to a Lao lady who both run the place and do a booming business. We had an excellent chicken biryani, garlic nan, stuffed nan and chicken khorma.  We will try and get back there again tomorrow night as we don't expect to get Indian food on the rest of this trip! After a quick laundry, we only have 2 sets of clothes, we set the alarm for early rising for tomorrow's adventures.

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Oct. 30, Chiang Mai to Huay Xai, Laos

We made it to the border along the bank of the Mekong River after a 6 and a half hour minibus ride with 12 passengers crowded in.  Even though we were by far the eldest  as we were picked up last we had the rear most seats.  Good thing I had put on my Thai motion sickness patch.  Interesting to listen to the younger generation discuss where they were going, malaria prophlaxis, events that had happened to them etc.  Through the resources of the young travelers they also managed to get the drop down TV screen to come down and play two movies as we drove along (Australia and Fifth Element).  Only problem was guess where the speakers were..... booming from the back of the bus. 

We were the only ones trying to cross the border, the rest were overnighting on the Thai side, probably having been convinced that this was desirable. We had to complain several times about the slow progress, and we're finally dropped off near the Thai border post at 5 PM.  We were able to get our exit stamp on the Thai post and catch a boat across the river, then fill in the Laos forms pay $70 for our 2 visas and get to our Riverside Hotel ($20 with AC) by 6 pm. By 6:30 we had stopped at Bap Guest House where we bought seats (we hope) in a minibus leading for Luang Nam Tha tomorrow and settled in to Mung Neer Restaurant for supper. With the French influence in Laos they have excellent banquettes and also make a decent pizza dough.  Leslie enjoyed a pizza like she had here less than a year ago and David had rice with mixed vegetables with chicken.

There are mosquitos here so we are covered up and have electrical heating plugs with mosquito repellent for the room.