June 20-23, 2012 Solo and into the Volcano Terrain of East Java

Copper batik caps for stamping

We left the Phoenix Hotel by 7am in the morning as we had a very long drive ahead of us (12+ hours). The distance in KM was not that far but the roads are 2 lane with many types of transportation on the road and many things being carried (insert photo of the dog on motorcycle). We had hired the same driver that we had our on day trip to Borobudur, and used the same car, which was very comfortable with AC and seat belts.  Our only stop on the trip to Mount Bromo was at Solo to see the Pasar Antique (Flea Market).  This was interesting and we picked up a copper batik cap (only one because they are so heavy unfortunately) and a petrified shark’s tooth.

Map of East Java marking our route in green

 We stopped for a very late lunch at a tourist restaurant, which had some other mini vans with tourists coming from Bali and heading to Yogyakarta.  We arrived at Bromo Cottages and had late for dinner.  On arrival we also negotiated for a Jeep to take us up the neighboring peak of Gunung Penanjak at 4:00 AM for a sunrise view over Mt. Bromo, and then down to the lava sands inside the crater and back to the hotel.  This required getting up at 3:30 am and heading up a road that really did require 4 wheel drive. 

Mt.Bromo is the crater with the steam rising out of it

On arrival at the viewing point at perhaps 2,500 meters altitude,we were wearing several layers of clothes and considered renting a couple of jackets that vendors were offering.  Instead we bought a cup of tea to keep warm while we sat with other Indonesian tourists to see the sunrise.  We estimated that there were about 200 tourists at that point.  The sunrise was colorful and it was interesting to see the sulfuric steam rising from the center of the volcano. 



Black lava sand covering steps

We then drove back down the road along the steep lip of the crater. Interesting driving on this narrow lip with drop offs on both sides.  We then dropped down into the lava sand area at the base so that we could climb the stairs to look into Mt. Bromo.  The number of tourists willing to climb up the 253 steps had greatly reduced in number.  We hired horses, (Tenggerese horses are very small) to take us across the black lava sands to a point closer to the stairs. However, we found that the stairs had been covered by a thick layer of lava ash from the surrounding area and were quite difficult, in fact, not usable as stairs.



Unnerving to look into

 We had bought some flowers from a vendor to give as our “offering” to the steaming, sulphurous insides of the volcano, the "volcano god". If you don’t like heights, then you would be uncomfortable and probably just stand near one of the broken guard rail posts and not venture anywhere.  Thankfully there were not too many people, so there was no pushing to view either into the volcano or back towards the sea of sand and all around the crater rim.After the exciting road back up the rim and down to our accomodation, we had a quick breakfast back at Bromo Cottage and we were back in the car and driving back and around the volcano's  base to Kalibaru.

Kalibaru was a 5 hour drive with some back tracking before we arrived at the Margo Utomo Cottages, surrounded by plantations. Growing in the area were coconut, nutmeg, coffee, pepper and cloves. We did not have much interest in visiting the nearby plantations as we have seen these products growing in many countries. We were up early the next morning and off to the Ijen Plateau with again some back tracking and about a 4 hour drive.

 After punishing our car by driving up a road that required a 4 wheel drive, we arrived at the Ijen Resort and Villas.  This hotel was at the most beautiful location among rice fields and with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, mostly volcanos.  We had a late lunch, settled in and then went for a walk in the rice fields.  The fixed menu dinner that was included with your room (no where else to eat) was very good.  We went to bed early as breakfast was going to be served at 4:30am for a 5 am departure by jeep with guide to go to Mount Ijen. The reason tourists come to this area is to hike up to the spectacular turquoise crater lake of Mount Ijen (2,148 m up with a crater of 2.2km x 2.5km ).

Mt. Ijen's turquoise lake and sulphur workers

Our rented 4 WD was waiting for us as was our female guide, who was a delightful surprise.  Aziza's english was quite good and it was interesting to talk to her for the hour and a half it took to drive each way. We had to cllimb through the dense jungle of Mt. Ijen Alas Purwo National Park until we arrived at the Ranger station, the starting point of our 3 km hike up to the crater rim of Mt. Ijen, a further 700 or so meters above the ranger station.
The trail you hike up is used by mine workers, carrying heavy loads of pure sulfur rocks in bamboo baskets hung on a pole over their shoulders. Some are carrying up to 80 kg (175 lbs) load but always have a smile if you are taking their pictures.  They were so sweet that we bought many packages of biscuits at the "weighing station" half way up the hill and passed them out to the workers. The LP guide book indicates a time of 1 1/2 hours to walk to the rim, but it took us 2 hours as it was quite steep, slippery and we needed to stay out of the way of the workers. We saw the turquoise lake, slightly bubbling in some areas because of volcanic activity.



Only 80kg! No problem~ just don't get in my way....

The sulphur fumes were not too strong when we were there, but many workers had masks in their bamboo baskets. Tourists have been restricted to the lip of the crater and are not allowed to go down to the lake area as the path is treacherous (nevertheless we saw some adventurous tourists going down but did not try it ourselves.)  It is interesting to watch how the workers use a shuffle jog in their rubber boots to go down the mountain. You definately want to stay out of their way so you don't disturb their rhythm!

We were back at the hotel by 11 am to pack up and head for the ferry over to Bali.  The ferry was actually very efficient and was only a 30 minute trip with a half hour or so to load and unload. However, it took another 5 hours or so to reach our hotel in Ubud, in part because of the congested inadequate roads, and partly because the driver did not know the location, which we forgave him because he was otherwise very good for four days.  We arrived at Cendana Resort on Monkey Forest Road at about 9 PM, had a quick dinner, and crashed.