Well thanks to Advil PM and ear plugs we had a couple of hours of sleep with all the snoring, church bells, and people getting up and down during the night. First perigrino's were getting up at 5am! We left at 7 am with only 1 pack between us weighing 15 lbs, which David carried most of the way. (We had made a decision to have my back pack and some of David´s stuff transported as we wanted to make the extra kilometers for a detour to Eunate.) Maribel had recommended an auberque in La Reina that would come get our pack and that would then hold beds for us.
So we hiked up the Alto Del Perdon, Hill of Forgiveness, with only 1 pack. There was a line of wind turbines along the mountain ridge. At the top was a monument and thank heavens an enterprising Spaniard with a truck selling cold drinks including the equivalent of red bull! We also had some of the Tortilla de patatas that his wife had made that morning. During the day we passed fields of sunflowers, a little past their prime, and vineyards heavy with red grapes. Birds we saw included bee eaters, swallows and perhaps a robin. We also saw quite a few butterflies.
Today's ascent was 350 meters and we hiked 22 kilos. Eunate has a 12th century Romanesque church of Santa Maria de Eunate. This church has been linked to the Knights Templar who long defended the Camino and closely resembles the one Templar's founded in Jerusalem. Well worth the extra kilometers.
We arrived at la Reina at 3pm so 8 hours going forward. Our alberge, Santiago Apostol was unfortunately on the outskirts of the village so after going through the town and out on a lovely medieval bridge we had to go 350 mtr up a hill. It was new and very industrial looking with a large big open dormitory for 60, as well as 4 smaller rooms for 10 each. 3 showers and 2 toilets per sex. Wonderful washing sinks with a built in scrubbing board.
These albergues are all about survival: first get your bed, pillow and blanket; get your shower; get your clothes washed; and then get a good place to dry them.
We went back into the town for dinner. Crossed the medieval pilgrim bridge which was built by the Queen, hence the town's name. The Rio Arga is much wider now than when we crossed it in Zubiri. The Calle de Mayor is the old main drag where all the action is and is very well preserved. We caught the tale end of mass at the Inglesia de Santiago. The church was beautiful and the choir outstanding. We gave thanks for the successful heart stint surgery that Chandra's mother had to have, which was very unexpected.
We caught up with a few of our fellow perigrinos while there including the Danes, and our young German boys. At our albergue we have a group of 9 traveling from Quebec. They have their luggage moved everyday.
Things we carried that we were not sure we would use - lambs wool: we have both used it almost daily in areas of our feet that are not quite got spots but there is an "issue" and it is now kept in an easily accessible part of the pack, universal sink stopper: this large thin round disk has allowed us to properly do laundry as stoppers are not plentiful.
The lights in the dorm were turned off at 10 pm so no chance to get this sent off. We have made a reservation in Estella at Pension San Andres so we will be sure to get a full nights sleep then even if we don't tonight.
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