Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Roncevalles to Zubiri






How do we feel? Pretty good and proud we made it with our 20 lb packs. Glad we are carrying our protein powder and I snuck in some 5 hour caffeine drink. I only had 5 and 3 are left.
Laundry has been done and hanging in the room to dry (hopefully). Having a Perigrino dinner for 11 euros each. Much better than last night!

Again we apologize for grammar, incomplete sentences and spelling errors, etc., as we we're working off the BB. Yes Leslie types a few notes as she walks along. Hopefully this multi tasking can continue with minimal mishap, like her time praying the rosary ,or listening to the "Let's learn Spanish" lessons!
Our peregrino meal last night was pasta, trout, French fries and yogurt for dessert along with red wine and water. We dressed for the occasion, David in his ascot and I in my scarf (see David's picture). We had 3 Danes, 1 older Flemish gentleman, and 2 young German fellows from the Black Forrest at our communal table. The Danes had taken 2 days to come over the pass and were using local taxis to carry their luggage. The Flemish fellow was carrying 12 kg and looking to unload some things. He had come over the pass in 1 day like the Germans.

Communion Mass last night was complete in a Romanesque 11nth century church with organist, flowers, and 3 priests. I will rant later about communion only "for catholics" after all offerings have already  been collected from all attendees! " We can not "all eat at the same table" was one of the few comments from the priest in English.

We left Roncevalles at 8 am after a protein drink to which David added some powdered caffeine energy drink. We passed a big white cross  marking where the Spanish had burned witches during the Inquisition, where they commemorated the destruction of 9 witches covens.

We enjoyed a sunny morning start followed by an overcast almost raining afternoon. We arrived in Zubiri at 3:30 and found a 1 star pension. The private aubregue we wanted to stay at was full. Pension is basically a 4 bedroom apt and only 1 bath. 36 €s.

Scenery we enjoyed today included:
Moss on rock walls;
Pectin emblems on the fences; Hemingway had come to stay in the village of Burguete which  we walked through and his piano was supposed to still be there.  The family that brought him to the village was the owners of  La Perla hotel in Pamploma. We walked through cow pastures with pale blond cows with bells and a few huge bulls. Also passed the bulls and they were not penned in! They looked out at us from some run down shed. We also had the wonderful sounds of water running along the stream. Picturesque villages with white wash and exposed stone corners and of course geraniums, petunias, and other flowers.

We did 23 kilometers with an ascent of 270 meters, made 2 stops with breakfast at around 10am and then a bocadello at noon. A bocadello is basically a sandwich. We also had a tortilla which is like a quiche with egg and potato.

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