Today was a 15KM day all uphill. Total ascent was 700 meters in clear sunny skies and not too hot because of the altitude 1,300 meters and also the fact we hiked a shorter distance and left our soulless truck stop a little before 8 am. We walked along the old highway by flashlight in the initial stage and had the new autopista high above us on trestles. Sometimes even 2 highways above us - it did mean we were safer walking on the old road.
We stopped at a church in Ruitan, lit a candle and got a sello. I was not going to put a truck stop sello in my credential!
We had cafe con leche in Herrerias and then started the more serious climb with cow pastures around us and forest glens. When we walked through vineyards your could smell the fermenting grapes at the bodegas. (Reminded us of poor Aniesa's closet when she was a baby and we made our own wine). When we walked through the trail along the pastures you had the farm odor and had to watch where you were stepping!
We were coming into the last small town before O'Cebreiro and we were literally jumping out of the path for the cows being directed by 2 dogs and 1 female herder.
We made it to the San Giraldo de Aurillac hostal (48 €) by 2pm and are now in a small Celtic town with the real soul of the Camino. We went to the church to get our sello and they stamped 3 in the credentials taking up 4 spaces! We don't have much room on our credential given that we need 2 per day the last 100KM.
We went to communion mass at 8pm and there was a perigrino blessing after mass. We lit a candle. The church is one of the oldest churches on the Camino, 9th century. The town has been servicing pilgrims since the end of the first millennium. A deceased parish priest is the one responsible for marking the Camino with the yellow arrows and restoring and preserving it. This place has the old thatched roofs like in Ireland. There are even 2 tourist shops in this town of maybe 20 buildings! We understand some tourist buses stop regularly.
A delightful day and we are now in the province of Galacia. We have been told that as the mountains of this area are the first ones that the westerly winds from the Atlantic hit, we can expect an immediate change of weather with frequent rain showers and thunderstorms. I hope we can go a few more days without rain. Today's walk would have been a real ordeal in parts in the rain.
The wine they serve here does not even have an official branded label and tastes a little young. They make their own liquors as well. We have been enjoying the thick soups called caldo gallego and they have the tarta de Santiago here which we like.
We believe we have an arrangement to have my backpack moved for another day. Today we were really struggling to make our selves understood and even resorted to google translator. We finally decided the fellow we were working with might be a bit simple and our needs were beyond him.
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Your ascent of 700 meters is very impressive, particularly considering the short distance covered. Will you let slide all this conditioning when you return? Will the hustle bustle of life in McLean snatch you back from your current contemplative pace? Surely you have experienced some transformation and are enjoying the opportunity and fulfillment of travelling according to your own effort. We can only imagine that it is peaceful despite the physical trials. Bravo for you to see it through. We pray that the spiritual consequence will be your most treasured reward.
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